Login with Facebook
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bombay Sapphire T 
Brothers in Arms T 
Deadend Dihedral T 
Europa T 
Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 
Freeway T 
Gauntlet, The T 
Men Holding Hands T 
Millenium Falcon T,S 
Stone Free T 
Sunset Strip T 
Warriors of the Wasteland T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeremy Blumel and Colin Morehead
Page Views: 759
Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Jun 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>


p.1 As for the Gauntlet, 10a, 160'. Mixed low angle fingers and hands on a right leaning line, step off a tree branch to start. Go past the tree anchor at the lip via a fixed line to the bolted anchor.

P.2 is a stellar pitch in itself, 10c 80', tight hands. Splitter next to an arete to fingers in a shallow corner.

p3. step down and right to the next corner system, and climb via stems, laybacks and chimney moves to bolted anchor. 60' 10+.

p4. The business. Chimney off of belay and pull into the steep double overhanging thin fingers cranking. Stem, jam and layback to the top, 90' solid 5.12.

Rap the route or continue via the Gauntlet


This route is a variation of the new full length route The Gauntlet, just finished this summer. Start as for that route, the next line left of Deadend Dihedral. Rap route with 2 ropes.


double set from Purple TCU to 2 camalot, wires, a few draws and slings. You may want a third finger size piece. Bolted anchors.

Comments on The Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 2, 2015

Since the addition of Sunset Strip things have changed a little. You only need one 60m rope to rap the route and some trees are missing. Perhaps this is overkill but here's how it climbed last week.

P1 - 10c 135 feet - Start per sunset strip/gauntlet. It's shown as Sticky Fingers in the select guide. Clip the last bolt on per sunset strip and then climb up and right on some dirty/loose rock to a two ring belay next to a few tree stumps. There is no fixed line or tree belay.

P2 - 10c - 100 feet - Start up the newly cleaned corner (thin fingers) until you reach a short chimney/big flake on the right. Step right (out of the corner) and climb the thin hands splitter on the face. (As described in the route description) It is possible to keep climbing the dirty corner, but it's not recommended.

P3 - 10d - 90 feet - From the belay climb up about 20 feet of fingers and then clip a bolt on the right. From here face traverse down to a big obvious spike. This allows entry to the awesome leaning finger crack /chimney.

P4 -12b - 90 feet - The business as described above. Wow. It looks intimidating but climbs really well and is not impossible!

For a rack medium nuts ( finger sized) work really well. No need for RP's or anything smaller than a Red C3. I'd suggest Triples of green alien/red c3 and yellow alien, a single grey alien and two .5 camalots. Then a single set from .75 camalot to #2,. Lots of draws help since there are a few fixed nuts right now.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!