|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]|
|FA:||Jeremy Blumel and Colin Morehead|
|Submitted By:||Evan Stevens on Jun 17, 2008|
|Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle||Add Comment|
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By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 2, 2015
Since the addition of Sunset Strip things have changed a little. You only need one 60m rope to rap the route and some trees are missing. Perhaps this is overkill but here's how it climbed last week.
P1 - 10c 135 feet - Start per sunset strip/gauntlet. It's shown as Sticky Fingers in the select guide. Clip the last bolt on per sunset strip and then climb up and right on some dirty/loose rock to a two ring belay next to a few tree stumps. There is no fixed line or tree belay.
P2 - 10c - 100 feet - Start up the newly cleaned corner (thin fingers) until you reach a short chimney/big flake on the right. Step right (out of the corner) and climb the thin hands splitter on the face. (As described in the route description) It is possible to keep climbing the dirty corner, but it's not recommended.
P3 - 10d - 90 feet - From the belay climb up about 20 feet of fingers and then clip a bolt on the right. From here face traverse down to a big obvious spike. This allows entry to the awesome leaning finger crack /chimney.
P4 -12b - 90 feet - The business as described above. Wow. It looks intimidating but climbs really well and is not impossible!
For a rack medium nuts ( finger sized) work really well. No need for RP's or anything smaller than a Red C3. I'd suggest Triples of green alien/red c3 and yellow alien, a single grey alien and two .5 camalots. Then a single set from .75 camalot to #2,. Lots of draws help since there are a few fixed nuts right now.