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 ADVANCED
The Dihedrals
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brothers in Arms T 
Deadend Dihedral T 
Europa T 
Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle, The T 
Freeway T 
Gauntlet, The T 
Men Holding Hands T 
Millenium Falcon T,S 
Stone Free T 
Sunset Strip T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Facade, aka Mad Nerd and Poodle 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Jeremy Blumel and Colin Morehead
Page Views: 596
Submitted By: Evan Stevens on Jun 17, 2008

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Falcon nesting closures are usually in effect from March 15 to July 31. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

p.1 As for the Gauntlet, 10a, 160'. Mixed low angle fingers and hands on a right leaning line, step off a tree branch to start. Go past the tree anchor at the lip via a fixed line to the bolted anchor.

P.2 is a stellar pitch in itself, 10c 80', tight hands. Splitter next to an arete to fingers in a shallow corner.

p3. step down and right to the next corner system, and climb via stems, laybacks and chimney moves to bolted anchor. 60' 10+.

p4. The business. Chimney off of belay and pull into the steep double overhanging thin fingers cranking. Stem, jam and layback to the top, 90' solid 5.12.

Rap the route or continue via the Gauntlet

Location 

This route is a variation of the new full length route The Gauntlet, just finished this summer. Start as for that route, the next line left of Deadend Dihedral. Rap route with 2 ropes.

Protection 

double set from Purple TCU to 2 camalot, wires, a few draws and slings. You may want a third finger size piece. Bolted anchors.


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