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Cockroach Crag
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L to R R to L Alpha
Classic Corner 
Climb Of The Cockroaches 
Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, The 
False Classic Corner (aka The Case Of The Missing Nolina) 
Leatherhead Arete, The 
R.S. Chicken Choker 
Roach Roof 

The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
FA: Todd Gordon, January 1988
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003
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BETA PHOTO: The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks, 5.8 and
R.S. Chicke...


This is the obvious double crack system on the top half of the right side of the southwest face of Cockroach Crag.

The bottom section is relatively rotten, but protects adequately if you avoid the really loose stuff.

The double crack system is wonderful, straight-on, solid, well-protected hands. Like many climbs, it's main crime is being too short.


Small cams or (preferably, since the rock isn't all that solid) tricams for the horizontals, up through a #2 Camalot for the cracks.

Small cams/tricams up through #3 Camalot for an anchor on top, depending on where you choose to build it.

Walk off to the northeast and down the gully on either side of the rock.

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The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks
BETA PHOTO: The Fabulous T. Gordex Cracks
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