The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route 5.11a
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Chuck Graves approaches the crux. The 11a stays to...
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Description The higher you go, the tougher it gets. Some cool hand jams down low and then some balancy moves on small, slopey holds towards the top. Resist the temptation to chicken out and exit off the right side!
Protection 5 bolts to a 2 chain anchor. On p.32 of the Golden Cliffs: Colorado this route is mislabeled as "Natural Fact."
BETA PHOTO
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The top moves are tricky.
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Eyeing up the crux.
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Trying not to fly.
Photo: Roth.
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| Comments on The Fabulous Flying Carrs Route |
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By Edward Jenner
Jan 1, 2001
| Ed Jenner - Good climb for those trying to lead .11 - well positioned bolts and an easy bailout option. Tip - use a toe jam to clip the last bolt. |
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Jul 1, 2002
| In Rossiter's guide book, the rendering of this route is mislabelled (7) under the drawing. After dubious pondering from the ground, I made an attempt anyway coming up one clip short of the goal. Feeling this was way burly for a (7) warmup, I bailed to the chimney on the right and scrambled up the last 10' to set a tope rope. My partner was then informed of its true rating and yelled up to me that the climb is 10d/11a. The top rope can also be used for the interesting (7) chimmney/stemming problem to the left. |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 13, 2008
rating: 5.11-
| Slippery in warm weather. |
By Andrew Riley
Jan 21, 2012
| There's a great kneebar with a no hands rest right before the crux. |
By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Apr 15, 2013
| There really are two radically different routes here. Stay to the right (still out on the face, not in the gully) and it is an unremarkable 5.9 or so. If you stay on the face left and center, it is a quality 5.11a/b. I don't normally give stars to a "contrived" route, but the moves on the face out left are really cool. Body position, strength, technicality - good stuff. |
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