||Trad, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]|
|Season: ||You name it. Winter would probably be premium.|
|Page Views: ||880|
|Submitted By: ||Arie on Dec 2, 2008|
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Due to the potential of nesting raptors high on this ridge, this route should be absolutely avoided spring through mid-summer.
This ridge is the central of the Generator Ribs beginning at about 6400ft climbing approximately 600 vertical feet. In the right lighting a small knob can be seen at 2/3 height and is a worthy goal. Similar in nature to the Island’s Reservoir Ridge or Challenge Buttress’s Standard Ridge- maybe just longer and less classic. There is no fixed gear on this climb. Be skilled in scouting and rigging your own rappels before attempting (bring webbing)
P1. From the northern terminus of the ridge hike up slightly south along the east side of the ridge (~100ft?) to reach a nice patch of solid quartzite (free of tree branches) leading up to the ridge crest. Climb up, reaching the crest and then dropping slightly to a small notch with a large fallen evergreen. ~100 ft 5.5-5.6.
P2-P3. Perhaps the best pitches. The route from here is obvious- climb the striking ridge (at times sharp) following the crest as closely as possible. Exposure on the west increases dramatically. Climbing is easy, with a couple short sections of 5.6 or 5.7. ~200 ft each pitch. P2 Belay where possible. P3 belay in a small brushy area.
P4-P5. The ridge jogs slightly and then continues its climb upward on moderate rock- occasionally a scramble, occasionally technical. ~200 ft. each pitch. 5.4-5.5
P6. The terrain mellows and is primarily easy 5th class. Stick to the ridge or a shallow gully. Fun ‘scrambling’ prevails. The end of this pitch places you approximately at the base of the knob. A huge nest (eagle?... winged lizard?) is found here on the west side of the ridge. This should absolutely be avoided to protect the possibility of nesting raptors. A ledgy area at the beginning of the pitch allows for a brief downclimb and rappel into the gully to the east if needed (fixed webbing on a large boulder if you can find it).
P7. Either force the knob (looks to be ~5.8r/x) or scamper east around the backside of the knob to a fun ‘summit’ (the NE arete of the block is supposedly protectable with purple TCU's). I attempted the direct northeast face of the knob but backed off. An old rusted out tin can will be found on the summit, telling of a previous early ascent.
If you continue… a couple hundred feet of brush and scrambling lead to a classic sharp ridge/arête. Otherwise a downclimb and rap into the western gully looks possible. Expect a least one large obstacle to negotiate.
P8. Follow this cool arete to another mellow area and belay. You can rap from here with a sketchy downclimb and 100ft rap of a pine into the gully west.
P9-10+. Continue up increasingly poor quality rock until the rock runs out and you are left groveling in the dirt. Expect occasionally difficult terrain (~5.9) and increased vegetation.
Descent- If you climb to the top of the full ridge, traverse west to one of the gullies and descent back north. Expect occasional obstacles. Or continue up to the BCC/Ferguson ridgeline and bushwack into Ferg.
I descended once by downclimbing from the summit knob to the ledgy area described in P6. Two raps placed me in the eastern gully. A second time I downclimbed (scary) to a large pine on the west side of P8 and rapped 100 ft to a quick glissade down the western gully.
Anyway you go, expect to be building you own anchors and expect adventure situations. Bring a bunch of webbing. Mine may be difficult to locate.
Named for the rockers that are/were the Alpenbock Club- possible depositors of the random tin can.
Follow the directions found in the 'Generator Ribs' area description. This is the most central ridge that also starts the lowest on the hill.
Light alpine rack. With extra webbing for rigging raps