The Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience) 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12- [details] |
| FA: | Ric Geiman, 1994 |
| Season: | all year |
| Submitted By: | Rik Anderson on Mar 26, 2006 |
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Ben Colter on the Extremist (aka Civil Disobedienc...
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Description This is a newer sport route on Kindergarten Rock. This climb is the second climb to the left of Diesel Dust. Start it by doing the bouldery crux moves after you clip the first bolt, move through the second bolt. After that, it begins to ease a little. Clip 5 more bolts to get to the anchor.
Location This is on the East face of Kindergarten Rock. (I refer to the whole rock as Kindergarten, it's been called that from the '80s.)
Protection 9 QDs.
Ben working the crimps of the Extremist.
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| Comments on The Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience) |
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By Cody Cook From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 9, 2007
| Just a note - the anchors at the top of the route could use a new, beefy rap chain, much like those added to other routes. One of the two anchors will move laterally in the hole, so the strength of this pair is basically reduced to the other bolt. I would certainly do this myself, but I know that new drilling is sensitive in the Garden, and there is a group of retro-bolters that have a good relationship with the Parks management at the Garden. I've suggested this replacement to them already. Thanks so much to Stewart, Brian, and crew for replacing so many anchors. The Garden is a great, safe place to climb because of you guys. Thanks to Petzl and Climbing Mag for donating the gear as well. |
By Cody Cook From: Colorado Springs, CO Nov 29, 2007
| This route is referred to as "The Extremist" in both D'Antonio's and Geiman's GoG guidebooks. If Civil Disobedience is any type of reference to the route Anarchy, that route is actually downhill a little, between Beat Me Up Scotty and Skyline Pig. Both routes are rated 5.12a/b. |
By tradcragrat Oct 26, 2008
| The second clip is sketchy, and the hanger on the bolt spins. Cool route though. Also, the crux is made significantly easier via a hold out left. I don't if that is considered off route, but if so it's contrived because you can go about 4 feet to the left of the bolt line, still able to clip the bolts. This does, however, make the top part a bit harder. |
By Jared LaVacque Administrator From: Anchorage Feb 4, 2010
| FA: Ric Geiman. |
By davelewis Jan 24, 2012
| Cody C. If I'm not mistaken, the original name of the route Anarchy downhill was Question Authority, and was given a stiffer grade, maybe 12c. Civil Disobedience is the route now called The Extremist. Both are considered 12a today. The second bolt on The Extremist definitely needs replacing. |
By ricgeiman Jan 19, 2013
| This one is called The Extremist. Confusion comes from some old guidebook errors. FA 1994. |
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