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East Face
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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline 
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Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster 
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Death of a Dinosaur  
Diesel and Dust 
End of an Era 
End to End 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The 
Inner Sanctum 
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Sandy Beaches 
Skyline Pig 

The Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience) 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Ric Geiman, 1994
Season: all year
Page Views: 1,665
Submitted By: Rik Anderson on Mar 26, 2006
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Ben Colter on the Extremist (aka Civil Disobedienc...
Seasonal Closures in place MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a newer sport route on Kindergarten Rock. This climb is the second climb to the left of Diesel Dust. Start it by doing the bouldery crux moves after you clip the first bolt, move through the second bolt. After that, it begins to ease a little. Clip 5 more bolts to get to the anchor.


Location 

This is on the East face of Kindergarten Rock. (I refer to the whole rock as Kindergarten, it's been called that from the '80s.)


Protection 

9 QDs.



Photos of The Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience) Slideshow Add Photo
Ben working the crimps of the Extremist.
Ben working the crimps of the Extremist.
Comments on The Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience) Add Comment
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By Cody Cook
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 9, 2007

Just a note - the anchors at the top of the route could use a new, beefy rap chain, much like those added to other routes. One of the two anchors will move laterally in the hole, so the strength of this pair is basically reduced to the other bolt. I would certainly do this myself, but I know that new drilling is sensitive in the Garden, and there is a group of retro-bolters that have a good relationship with the Parks management at the Garden. I've suggested this replacement to them already.

Thanks so much to Stewart, Brian, and crew for replacing so many anchors. The Garden is a great, safe place to climb because of you guys. Thanks to Petzl and Climbing Mag for donating the gear as well.

By Cody Cook
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 29, 2007

This route is referred to as "The Extremist" in both D'Antonio's and Geiman's GoG guidebooks. If Civil Disobedience is any type of reference to the route Anarchy, that route is actually downhill a little, between Beat Me Up Scotty and Skyline Pig. Both routes are rated 5.12a/b.

By tradcragrat
Oct 26, 2008

The second clip is sketchy, and the hanger on the bolt spins. Cool route though.

Also, the crux is made significantly easier via a hold out left. I don't if that is considered off route, but if so it's contrived because you can go about 4 feet to the left of the bolt line, still able to clip the bolts. This does, however, make the top part a bit harder.

By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Feb 4, 2010

FA: Ric Geiman.

By davelewis
Jan 24, 2012

Cody C. If I'm not mistaken, the original name of the route Anarchy downhill was Question Authority, and was given a stiffer grade, maybe 12c. Civil Disobedience is the route now called The Extremist. Both are considered 12a today. The second bolt on The Extremist definitely needs replacing.

By ricgeiman
Jan 19, 2013

This one is called The Extremist. Confusion comes from some old guidebook errors. FA 1994.