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A good pitch with some wild moves if you read it wrong... and pretty good climbing if you read it right. Climb one corner until it ends, move left with a fixed sling and some small cams for pro, then start into the harder climbing. Top out on a ledge that is just around the corner from the slabs in the Amphitheatre. There is gear for a belay, but you can also clip the first bolt on the sport route just above, (Wild Turkey
). To descend, clean your anchor and scramble around left onto the Amphitheatre.
This is the left-facing corner system left of 'Morning Thunder
.' It starts off in a steep juggy corner with moderate climbing before crossing left under a hanging horn with a tied-off sling. The crux comes after pulling up into the next corner up and left. Gear will be well below your feet for much of this route, but it can be protected most of the way.
A standard light rack including some small cams. The tied-off sling in the thread is old and would need to be replaced to trust it. I TR'd the climb suspicious of the gear, but found that I should not have been. Some small cams would have been available at the area near that sling, and the crux was not where I expected it to be and although it would have been 'exciting' to lead, it would have been far from death-defying.
By kevin murphy
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Mar 15, 2010
Pretty burly route, only tr'ed it. Couldn't find much gear in the dihedral, except 1 good nut. Good climbing though.