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The Wasp Canyon
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Expensive Route, The T 
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The Expensive Route 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Kevin McLaughlin
Page Views: 1,580
Submitted By: Kevin Stricker on Mar 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Dave on The Expensive Route.

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Description 

Make reachy moves up the blank face to reach a left-facing dihedral. Lieback up to a stance, then hand traverse right out the large roof to a hanging prow. Continue up and right through another roof to the Rabbit Hole anchors.

Location 

This lies on the blank wall right of the Wild Overhang are two bolts leading to a large, hanging dihedral capped by a roof.

Protection 

Two bolts, pro to 3" with extra #0.75 - #2 Camalots.


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Dave on The Expensive Route.
BETA PHOTO: Dave on The Expensive Route.

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By Kevin McLaughlin
From: Colorado Springs
Mar 20, 2011

While borrowing a friend's drill.... It came unclipped at a very inopportune time. It crashed onto the base of the wall suffering damage. Almost taking out my belayer!! The repairs weren't too brutal, but they gave cause for the route name.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 21, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Wow.... Just wow. One of the most memorable pitches I've ever climbed. 11++ seems a little more fair for a rating ;)
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jun 7, 2011

How do you get past the first bolt?!?!
By Ross Keller
From: Parker, CO
Jun 8, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I went a bit left as there didn't seem to be much for the hands going straight at it. There are good feet and a small feature for the left hand. I thought the move past bolt 2 was the business!
By Drew Thayer
From: Laramie, WY
Jun 19, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

Outstanding! Another wild, unique gem at Thunder Ridge. Went left at the start, extremely hard past 2nd bolt, and I found the move standing up into the crack to be very heads-up. Punch in a green Alien, then a 0.4 Camalot to protect the lieback. Roof traverse climbs like a dream!

Too bad you need to run it up to the high anchors, rope drag becomes a CHORE. But totally worth it for the movement down low.