The Estwing Arete
||Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA: ||Eric Salmi, Craig Martin, Tyler Phillips, Julia Salmi 2008 FFA: Eric Salmi|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, Summer, Fall|
|Page Views: ||1,269|
|Submitted By: ||Craig Martin on Dec 17, 2011|
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Established in 2008 in ground-up style with no bolts. Although the experience was very satisfying, the end product was a poorly protected route that none of us wanted to climb again. Subsequent ascents have seen the addition of several lead bolts as well as anchor bolts making for a fun and well protected climb in a very exposed position. It is often windy in this area.
Pitch 1: Begin off a boulder at the base of the route. Climb up and left following 3 bolts and into a right facing corner. Climb this corner up to a small roof and hand traverse to the right back to the aręte. Jam up the short but wildly exposed hand and fist crack to a small belay ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. 5.10-, 80'.
Pitch 2: Climb up the hand crack in the steep corner system to the right of the belay. At the top of this corner make some moves to the left and gain a large ledge system. Ramble up the ledges to their highest point and locate a bolt on the wall above. Climb up passing a roof on its right side and negotiate some easy climbing on less than stellar rock. Belay on a large ledge. 5.10-, 100’
Pitch 3: Gain the obvious ledge by climbing past 2 fixed pins, ascend the headwall via the right most crack system leading to the summit. Pumpy and exposed climbing with a bit of grittiness. 5.11-, 90’.
Rappel the route or climb one more crappy pitch and walk off down the Hayden Couloir.
Single rack to a #4 Camalot, Doubles in the #.5 - #2 Camalot range.
60 Meter rope. Helmets.
BETA PHOTO: The Estwing Arete