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Golden Eagle Buttress
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Essence of Gelfling, The 

The Essence of Gelfling 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 220'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Milton Mugambe and Ryan Curry
Season: Fall, winter and spring
Page Views: 266
Submitted By: Milton Mugambe on Dec 28, 2009
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Starting up The Essence of Gelfling.

The Essence of Gelfling 

This fine climb begins above the approach gully that seperates the east/south side of The Golden Eagle from the sandy slopes below. From the staging area on the rocky ridge-line, walk up and left through the bushes to the base of the slender collumn. Climb the perfect hand-crack for about twenty feet step right and climb a grainy, but easy crack to the base of a right-facing corner. Go back left onto the arete to the base of a wide-crack with a thin crack to it's left. Climb the double cracks up to a ledge be sure to protect the follower against a swing to the left). Step left and climb a widening crack along the edge of the rock formation. Step left and clip a bolt, and climb the face to horizontal crack. Continue straight up to another horizontal crack. Climb up to the bolt above and trend right up the face above to a two-bolt anchor. Rappel with a seventy meter rope in to the gully system to the right and climb down to the staging area. A second pitch requires a walk off to the east. From the two-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch step down and to the right and climb into a groove that leads to a widening hand crack. Climb the grainy groove and hand-crack above through a small roof, continue up the widening crack(fists and a short bit of off-width) to a small ledge, climb the short crack above to the top of the ridge-line. Some large wires may be in place for the belay, otherwise bring some for the anchor. Walk off to the east. Bring camming units from 3/8" to 3 1/2", doubles 1" to 3".



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By Milton Mugambe
Dec 31, 2009

Mucho gusto