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SOB Gully (skier's left side)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Modern Day Interpretation of Mig's Arete/Swallow Arete T 
Casual Route, The T 
Casually Off-Route T 
Cloak & Dagger T 
Cloaked Interpretation T 
Comic Relief T 
Debutante's Ball T 
Dragon's Tooth, The T 
Escape Artist T 
Escape, The T 
Perfect Art T 
Power Lounger T 
Stand Up Comic T 
Veterans With Vertigo T 
Woke Up Punk T 

The Escape 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
Page Views: 1,593
Submitted By: J. Thompson on May 17, 2009

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BETA PHOTO: The ridge line that is "The Escape".

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The Escape is less a route in its own right, it is more an alternate "escape" from going up the "descent" gully after completing a route on the Comic Relief buttress.

After squeezing through the hole, look up and notice the obvious ridge that leads to the canyon rim. This is the route.

To start either climb the mossy slab up and behind the bottom of the rappel or scramble up the dirty gully 100 feet, and traverse out on a ledge. Go up and gain a knife edge ridge that drops away onto the opposite side of North Chasm View. Cool exposure!

Scramble left to an obvious ledge at the base of the ridge proper.
Climb up the ridge to a fixed rappel/ belay station near a HUGE chockstone.

Continue climbing the ridge, you will weave back and forth around several gendarmes. Rarely will you be on the ridge line proper. Belay at the "top" of the ridge right before it drops into a notch.

Climb down into the notch and around the right side of a gendarme. Climb up the peg crack on the final head wall and belay on the rim.

Follow a slight trail left a short distance until it leads to a more worn trail...then go right.

It's about 5 minutes to the campground from the top of the climbing.


The rack you brought up any of the routes will work fine.

Photos of The Escape Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The final "headwall".
BETA PHOTO: The final "headwall".

Comments on The Escape Add Comment
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
May 17, 2009

To reiterate: this route is an alternate, and more fun, way to get off the Comic Relief buttress.
I'm not exactly sure who did it first...but Kent Wheeler and Jim Howe told me about it....maybe it was them?
An interesting and scenic end to the day!
By Nik Mirhashemi
From: Telluride, CO
May 6, 2013

A better option to start the escape from the top of Comic Relief buttress is to rap from the first station, swing over to the opposite wall and the scramble up to the knife-edge ridge. It's really easy to do, and there is no need to rap all the way into the gully. The escape goes in only a couple pitches, and you could probably scramble the whole thing, although there are a few exposed/heady sections. Be careful with rope drag. This should deposit you just below and looker's left of the campground. Might have taken us two minutes to hike up to our tent from the top.

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