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The Equalizer
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By adamgable
From Laramie, WY
Apr 16, 2007
My girlfriend and Me in Hawaii

(yes i just posted this on rockclimbing.com) (just trying to get a little feedback from everyone)

Hey all, I think i am just really confused or not getting this. I for some odd reason am addicted to climbing literature of any type. (this is besides the point) Anyways, I purchased Craig Leubben's new anchor book by the mountaineers books. I thought hey this will be useful a new book about anchors that is really up to date. Maybe i can learn something useful from this or something new and up and coming. I have been climbing about 7 years.

Anyways i was really interested in the whole cordalette not equalizing everything thing. So i started reading about the different methods. the way to go seems to use "The Equalizer" Now i have looked all over the book numerous times now and it shows numerous "Equalizers" and what i have gotten out of it , is that the equalizer is the slidiing X tied with two length limiting knots. Somebody please tell me if i have understood this and if you have the book, please tell me where the description for the sliding x with two knots and the equalizer description are different.

I am just trying to get a really good stance on this as i am a firm believer in the cordalette and have always used it (probably still will ) but want to try something new out. I tried to look this up but it brought up 15 pages of post and i am kinda lazy i guess.

Thanks a bunch
Adam


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By Mike Mu.
Apr 20, 2007
The Nose from the road

adam, if i remember correctly, the equalizer is 2 lockers on the master point. there is a clear picture and description of it in the book. John Long also put out a new anchor book and it has a variant of the equalizer in it, so you should check that out too. to my knowledge i have never heard of a cordelette failing. i think as long as you are thinking about the next pitch and direction of travel, you can build the correct anchor without all the fuss of the equalizer.


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By Ryan Malarky
From Denver, CO
Apr 20, 2007
Hulk

Along those same lines, I just finished reading JL's new anchor book. He professes that the "Equalette" is the latest, greatest rigging method. I have played around with it a little bit, and I'm a bit confused on how best to rig a piece set for an upward pull into the anchor matrix when using the equalette that wouldn't interfere with its dynamic equalization characteristics. Anyone have any suggestions?


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By Buff Johnson
Apr 20, 2007
smiley face

That was a concern I saw when the Count posted on anchor thoughts. Probably 2 ways I can think of: clip (the upward) to the main anchor point but have slack in the sling to allow for a free range of motion, or clip (the upward) directly to the belayer. I like the first more as it sets up for a more dynamic belay & can allow the belayer to move if needed.

One other thing I'd probably do, with one sling knotted for limiting extension, I'd put in a redundant sling unknotted, just to back up any strength loss for knots.


Pics of course say a 1000 words. Maybe I'd just take some common anchors I've used and post them? heck it's gettin nice out, maybe I'll find an afternoon to make some submittals.

Mike's thought on the situation at hand: the next lead pitch, current terrain, natural features offered, is really where the focus of anchor application lies.

I am as guilty as the next: I spend all day looking for bomber placements & connecting slings to make good angles, when this huge boulder right in front of me will do just fine if I just wrap the climbing rope around it.


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