|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b R [details]|
|Submitted By:||Kurtz on Aug 28, 2012|
|Comments on The Entertainer||Add Comment|
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May 21, 2015
This route provides great entertainment for those looking for some thin crux moves protected by a single, finicky cam of arguable quality, placed from a bit of a strenuous stance. A slightly runout start and a hollow flake up high only add to the show!
However, what this route may be lacking in G-rated safety, it makes up for with excellent, beta-intensive movement.
The R rating provided may be deserved for those attempting an on-sight; probably best only for climbers quite competent at the grade.
Fortunately, for those not as solid at the grade, The Entertainer can be top-roped with a gear anchor, as noted in the description above. After figuring out the beta that works for you, and finding the relatively specific gear placements on top rope, a personal risk assessment of going for the lead can be made. No matter the ascent style, enjoy the fun movement on shockingly small holds for a 5.10.
Multiple options exist. You may decide to build an anchor on the ledge about 10ft down from the top of the cliff. It is also possible to build an anchor without going down to the ledge, or even getting too close to the cliff edge. For this, you will need a good amount of webbing/static line to properly position the master-point. Locate a shallow, flaring crack about 12 long, skiers left of the arete. Small/medium tricams and/or medium stoppers fit here. About 6 feet skiers right of this is a deeper crack that fits medium tricams and/or 0.5/0.75 C4s. This crack is nearly in line with where most parties choose to put their anchors master-point, which is just a few inches climbers right of the arete on the ledge.
FOR THOSE INTERESTED IN AN ON-SIGHT DO NOT CONTINUE READING
Start on the big ledge and head more or less straight up to the obvious horizontal crack on positive crimps, side pulls, and secure feet. Get a great rest at the horizontal, plug in at least one solid medium sized cam, and get psyched for the great climbing immediately above you!
Move up, trending slightly left on a few perfect crimps, a pinch that turns into a deep side pull, and probably the most astounding hold on the cliff; a tiny 2-finger gaston crimp. Awesome! Work you way up to the relative finger bucket out left and find the best stance you can to place your next piece. Keep an eye out for a distant right foot.
A somewhat flared constriction in the crack around head-height will take a finger sized cam, however this can be a finicky placement. Determine the best cam/lobe orientation to exploit the subtle features within the constriction. Keep the potential of serious consequences in mind if this piece were to blow during a fall high in the crux. Clip the cam and switch your mind back to the movement beta.
Rock up on some more crimps to a series of fun, challenging, and balancey side pulls, eventually grabbing a flat jug with your right hand, and either a bomber left hand finger lock, or another very unique hold for the area; a deep, secure 2-finger pocket. Find a rest and get one or two finger sized cams/stoppers in this area.
Milk the 2-finger pocket, getting some high feet and tech your way to the hollow flake using a laser cut corner on your right. From the jug on top of the flake, get a small, but solid offset nut, and make your way up slightly easier, though still interesting, ground to the ledge. A definite CT classic!