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Awesome jams and locks make this route a classic at the grade.
Better learn how to hand jam before attemping a lead on this climb, because if you don't you'll make the beginning into a 5.12 sufferfest.
Ignore the jug out right and take the crack head on, pull the mini-roof and gain a ledge, protect well and continue up and then left following obvious crack system to the anchors.
Route far left of Reachers of Habit and New River Gunks
Stnd. rack, #2 camalot for the bottom crux, mixed gear the rest of the way. Lots of good gear.
BETA PHOTO: The Entertainer (5.10a). Junkyard Wall, New River ...
Ladd Raine making one of the fun upper moves on th...
Jamming through the roof
|By Shannon Millsaps|
May 6, 2010
I found a big snake skin in the second fat horizontal.
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
If you don't have much jamming experience, go run a few laps on New Yosemite, then come back to this one. The beginning is great and is a little challenging, but it eases up significantly after that.
|By Jake Jones|
From: The Eastern Flatlands
Oct 23, 2013
I really enjoyed this one. The bottom to me was not that much more difficult than NY, just more sequence dependent. I also used the "jug" to the right for a foot, not a hand. I found the diagonal crack leading to the left vertical crack to be just as challenging as gaining the ledge. From there, it backs off quite a bit with the exception of one thin move up high. A really great route, but it's more like 60ft, not 80.