|3,881 page views|
Awesome jams and locks make this route a classic at the grade.
Better learn how to hand jam before attemping a lead on this climb, because if you don't you'll make the beginning into a 5.12 sufferfest.
Ignore the jug out right and take the crack head on, pull the mini-roof and gain a ledge, protect well and continue up and then left following obvious crack system to the anchors.
Route far left of Reachers of Habit and New River Gunks
Stnd. rack, #2 camalot for the bottom crux, mixed gear the rest of the way. Lots of good gear.
Ladd Raine making one of the fun upper moves on th...
Ladd Raine messing with some gear on the upper sec...
Jamming through the roof
|Comments on The Entertainer
|By Shannon Millsaps|
May 6, 2010
I found a big snake skin in the second fat horizontal.
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
If you don't have much jamming experience, go run a few laps on New Yosemite, then come back to this one. The beginning is great and is a little challenging, but it eases up significantly after that.
|By Jake Jones|
From: The Eastern Flatlands
Oct 23, 2013
I really enjoyed this one. The bottom to me was not that much more difficult than NY, just more sequence dependent. I also used the "jug" to the right for a foot, not a hand. I found the diagonal crack leading to the left vertical crack to be just as challenging as gaining the ledge. From there, it backs off quite a bit with the exception of one thin move up high. A really great route, but it's more like 60ft, not 80.