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Midnight Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
After Midnight 
Caboose, The 
Cage, The 
Caged Bird of Pray 
Cirque du Soleil 
Crack a Smile 
Deus Ex Machina 
Dyno Mart 
Engine, The 
Flake Out 
Geminae Cracks 
Grande Finale 
Hack a Drone 
Hammer Down 
Jet Stream 
Karma Chameleon 
Midnight Cowboy 
Midnight Express 
Pirate Radar 
Stroke of Midnight, The 
Union with Earth 
Weather Report 

The Engine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Vaino Kodas, Mary Zuvela, 2004
Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Jun 7, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Midnight Rock, left side.

A. The Cage 9+ R, gear....


This route climbs a clean brown wall that starts from a large ledge high on the rock, above the Pirate Radar roof. It is about 30 feet left of Karma Kamelian. The best approach is to rappel from the top. The ledge can also be accessed by climbing one of the lower routes. An excellent thin crack leads to some exposed face climbing. Move right at the top around the large block to the anchor. A great pitch.

Route description from used with permission.


5 bolts plus gear. 2-bolt anchor.

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By david goldstein
Aug 6, 2006

If done just so, this is a continuously challenging, interesting pitch. However, it's easy to take the wrong sequence, after which placing pro is hard and getting back in sync problematic unless you bail off route to much easier ground.

Beta Warning: Stay on the right side of the crack. The left side seems better at first but it leads you off route to inferior climbing.