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Psychobabble Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Enemy Within, The S 
Eye in the Sky T,TR 
Eye of the Enemy T 
Psychobabble T 
Psychostematic T 
Rebel Yell S 
Rock Capades T 
Unknown T 

The Enemy Within 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Stuart Ruckman, Gordon Douglass,1987
Page Views: 1,316
Submitted By: John Steiger on Sep 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up at The Enemy Within while lowering off ...

Description 

This is the bolted arête to the left of Psychobabble –-- wild, double fall-line position. Getting to the second bolt is a tad spicy for a sport climb; if you fall just before clipping it, you’'ll swing into an ankle (maybe knee) crunching ledge --– though the holds are good incuts. Getting to two of the other bolts is also unusually exciting, but the fall would be all air. Could it be that the "enemy within" is your lack of courage?

Protection 

Draws. Chains on top (great lower).


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By T_jones
From: Salt Lake
May 21, 2012

This thing felt hard for BCC .12a but I think that is because of the exposure and angle of the climb. The second you pull on, it wants to pull you off the left side of the arete the whole way up. Lots of bad holds to confuse you but all the good ones are there. A scary but good one!

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