Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Crack Land
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Fright 
Ancient Light 
Ancient Sight 
Art Of War, The 
Blade 
Crack Love 
Crack Love II 
Crack Love III 
Enemy Within, The 
Ghost Ship 
Mystery Ship 
Mystery Tour 
Resurrection 
Ship of Fools 
Thus Us 
War Horse 

The Enemy Within 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Richard Rossiter and Pebby Johns, July 2006
New Route: Yes
Season: Not Winter
Page Views: 763
Submitted By: Richard Rossiter on Jul 2, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: This is an updated photo of Crack Land, part of Av...
Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route ascends the conspicuous, narrow chimney between The Art of War and Thus Us. The rock is solid and good quality. Crux is in the last 20 feet of the chimney where it tapers from narrow to squeeze. Two bolts protect this final stretch. A big throw with the right arm and a virtual pullup get you out of the squeeze and up to a good stance at a two-bolt anchor with rings. You may have broken a sweat by then.

Tape up and wear appropriate clothing to protect your knees and elbows. Bolts and ring anchor were installed on 2 July 2007. Route was previously toproped. ENEMY is now a solid and reasonable lead...not a sport climb.


Location 

Find this route on the NE Face of Avalon between The Art of War and Thus Us. Start along the left side of a huge block that has fallen about 3 feet and stopped. Thus Us begins along the right side of the same block.


Protection 

Bring gear from a green Alien to a #2 Camalot. 2 bolts protect the last 20 feet of the chimney. 2-bolt anchor with rings at the top. This anchor has a good stance and can also be used for Thus Us.



Photos of The Enemy Within Slideshow Add Photo
In the chimney.
In the chimney.
Comments on The Enemy Within Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Jun 25, 2008
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The most physical climb on the wall, and also the least traveled if dirt is an indicator. Could still use a little more brushing. You can also climb outside the squeeze by stemmin' and palming.

By prod.
From: Boulder, Co
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun grovel. Seems easier than 10a to me.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Jun 21, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This is fun, but sport climbers might not like it. It would be very hard to actually fall out of the chimney on this, but I am glad the bolts are present.