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Pedestal Buttress
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All The Way 
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Beginning, The 
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End, The 
Evelyn Bites The Crust 
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Unsorted Routes:

The End 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

Type:  Trad, TR
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Either Tommy Deutchler or Scott Stewart, depending on who ya ask
Page Views: 1,578
Submitted By: Steve Sangdahl on Mar 23, 2003
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Sticking the crux move on The End. September '08. ...


This route is well worth doing whether ya lead it or toprope it. On the far left side of the Sometimes formation,by the chimney. Start off the block, or do the direct start.


Usual DL stuff, may be scary

Photos of The End Slideshow Add Photo
The End. Moves above the crux with all placements visible below. Photo by Isaiah@ de Therneau.
The End. Moves above the crux with all placements ...
Burt grits his teeth
Burt grits his teeth
Obviously good feelings towards this climb.
Obviously good feelings towards this climb.
Comments on The End Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 18, 2011
By supercheetah
Aug 25, 2005

There are two different ways to conquer the crux on this one. If you have the momentum going up into it, use it. If you are really good at crimping, there is a very small one you could use that's in the area near the right hand if you're coming up from the left.

By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 25, 2008

The hold in question has been loose for years. It may still go soon, but this is not new info.

By richard bechler
Sep 23, 2008

The hold has benn loose since the first time I climbed the end. Which was 30+ years ago.

By Isaac Therneau
From: Rochester, MN
Oct 12, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R

A hard lead with scant pro. I only placed two pieces, the smallest ultra light nut and a mediocre blue alien.

By Tradoholic
Aug 26, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X

"X" rated lead , I got in more than two pieces but they were all pretty sketchy. I did the direct, avoiding the block, I thought that was always normal route but Sven says otherwise.
A #1 Ballnut behind the horn at the lower crux, helped ease the nerves in that little awkward section. Then a decent micro cam, two Astro nuts in a shallow pocket, two more ball nuts up higher, one behind a hollow block.
Sven says "One's last lead at Devil's Lake?" Too bad he was wrong.

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 26, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

I give it an R. You can place a good brassie once on top of the prow, which should protect the crux moves. A fall would be bad, but probably not to the ground. Ball Nuts work well behind a sketchy flake to protect? the last hard move.

By Tradoholic
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X

I think this begs the question of what we consider "R" or "X". To me this route is undeniably "X" due to the placements that will probably pull if fallen on. Just cause the gear goes in doesn't mean it's worth anything.

See this old thread and continue the discussion if you feel the need:>>>

By Tom Mulholland
From: #1 Cheese Producing State!
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a R

Ok, well if X is for suspect gear, then X it is!

By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Oct 18, 2011

I forgot how fun this climb is! Has anyone else been on this recently? The good edge right below the large flake near the start is a bit loose and seems like it could blow. Has it always been like this?

By Tradoholic
Oct 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a X

Always been that way Remo.

By Burt Lindquist
From: Madison, WI
Oct 18, 2011

I remember wiggling that hold way back when I was 13 years old.... I am almost 50 now....