There are two different ways to conquer the crux on this one. If you have the momentum going up into it, use it. If you are really good at crimping, there is a very small one you could use that's in the area near the right hand if you're coming up from the left.
By Jay Knower Administrator From: Campton, NH Aug 25, 2008
The hold in question has been loose for years. It may still go soon, but this is not new info.
The hold has benn loose since the first time I climbed the end. Which was 30+ years ago.
By Isaac Therneau From: Rochester, MN Oct 12, 2008 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b R
A hard lead with scant pro. I only placed two pieces, the smallest ultra light nut and a mediocre blue alien.
By Tradoholic Aug 26, 2009 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a X
"X" rated lead , I got in more than two pieces but they were all pretty sketchy. I did the direct, avoiding the block, I thought that was always normal route but Sven says otherwise. A #1 Ballnut behind the horn at the lower crux, helped ease the nerves in that little awkward section. Then a decent micro cam, two Astro nuts in a shallow pocket, two more ball nuts up higher, one behind a hollow block. Sven says "One's last lead at Devil's Lake?" Too bad he was wrong.
By Tom Mulholland From: #1 Cheese Producing State! Aug 26, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a R
I give it an R. You can place a good brassie once on top of the prow, which should protect the crux moves. A fall would be bad, but probably not to the ground. Ball Nuts work well behind a sketchy flake to protect? the last hard move.
By Tradoholic Aug 27, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a X
I think this begs the question of what we consider "R" or "X". To me this route is undeniably "X" due to the placements that will probably pull if fallen on. Just cause the gear goes in doesn't mean it's worth anything.
I forgot how fun this climb is! Has anyone else been on this recently? The good edge right below the large flake near the start is a bit loose and seems like it could blow. Has it always been like this?
By Tradoholic Oct 18, 2011 rating: 5.10a6a18VI+18E1 5a X