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The Enchanted Tower

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North (Left) Face 
South/Southeast (Right) Face 
West (Center) Face 

The Enchanted Tower 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 34.23079, -107.91683 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 121,654
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 15, 2006
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Enchanted Tower at night in August.

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Description 

What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. One the easiest and most obvious (and therefore most popular) routes on the Tower proper is Golden Stairs at 5.11c (originally rated 5.12a). This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath (5.13a). Bring the big guns!

The Tower is commonly broken up into three distinct faces. The typically shaded North (Left) Face, the typically sunny West (Center) Faceand the South/Southeast (Right) Face.

Climbing began at the Tower in the early 80s when students at the nearby New Mexico Tech college in Socorro were tipped off about a huge "mushroom rock" by a local forest service ranger. This great historical account of the early days at the Tower by Philip Simon is a must-read.


Getting There 

If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.


21 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',15],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Enchanted Tower:
Grendel   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   North (Left) Face
Once Upon a Time   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   North (Left) Face
Golden Stairs   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Hippogriff   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
White Witch   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 85'   North (Left) Face
Flotsam & Jetsam   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Technowitch   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   North (Left) Face
Rumplestiltskin   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   North (Left) Face
Glenda   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   North (Left) Face
Tinkerbell's Nightmare   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   North (Left) Face
Full Rubber Mission   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 95'   North (Left) Face
Jabberwocky   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 95'   North (Left) Face
Straight On Til Morning   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   North (Left) Face
The Hunting of the Snark   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 110'   West (Center) Face
Zee Wicked Witch   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   West (Center) Face
Shipwrecked   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Ripped Van Winkle   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   West (Center) Face
Mad Hatter   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   West (Center) Face
Goliath   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Browse More Classics in The Enchanted Tower

Featured Route For The Enchanted Tower
The final moves to the anchors are tricky and just hard enough to ruin a send. September 2013.

Shipwrecked 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b  NM : Enchanted Tower : ... : South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Powerful start to some technical pocket pulling. After this you get a good rest to an endurance finish. Yes the mono's can be avoided at the bottom, and don't grab the chains at the finish....[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Enchanted Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Climber on the west face of The Tower. This picture shows how steep some of the routes get near the top.
Climber on the west face of The Tower. This pictur...
The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nearly-full moon, October 2009.
The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nea...
Ring-tailed cat at the Enchanted Tower, NM.
Ring-tailed cat at the Enchanted Tower, NM.
The Enchanted Tower in all its Glory
The Enchanted Tower in all its Glory
Summer night view of the Tower
Summer night view of the Tower
The Tower <br />Goliath followes the arete along the sun shadow line.
The Tower
Goliath followes the arete along the sun...
Moon over the Tower.
Moon over the Tower.
Comments on The Enchanted Tower Add Comment
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006

The overhanging arete on the Enchanted Tower has to be one of the most striking lines in the southwest. A number of routes start on the lower section of the arete and branch off. Goliath 5.13 takes it 110 ft. to the top. If you haven't been there plan a trip now.