Enchanted Tower at night in August. flickr.com/th...
What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. One the easiest and most obvious (and therefore most popular) routes on the Tower proper is Golden Stairs
at 5.11c (originally rated 5.12a).
This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath
(5.13a). Bring the big guns!
The Tower is commonly broken up into three distinct faces. The typically shaded North (Left) Face
, the typically sunny West (Center) Face
and the South/Southeast (Right) Face
Climbing began at the Tower in the early 80s when students at the nearby New Mexico Tech college in Socorro were tipped off about a huge "mushroom rock" by a local forest service ranger. This great historical account
of the early days at the Tower by Philip Simon is a must-read.
If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
21 Total Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Enchanted Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Enchanted Tower:
Featured Route For The Enchanted Tower
Rumplestiltskin 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a NM
: Enchanted Tower
: ... : North (Left) Face
Another classic tower endurance climb. Starts in a small dihedral through entertaining and easier than thy look moves. Continue up with big pulls between big pockets to a large rest. Figure out how to snag a rest here (I've heard of people sitting on the ledge), or if the pump clock is ticking start the sprint up the final headwall. Continue on steep rock for the next three bolts then enjoy the easier ground to the anchors....[more] Browse More Classics in NM
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Dark, starry nights at the Tower. September 2014.
Climber on the west face of The Tower. This pictur...
Summer night view of the Tower
The Enchanted Tower in all its Glory
The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nea...
Ring-tailed cat at the Enchanted Tower, NM.
The Tower Goliath followes the arete along the sun...
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006
The overhanging arete on the Enchanted Tower has to be one of the most striking lines in the southwest. A number of routes start on the lower section of the arete and branch off. Goliath 5.13 takes it 110 ft. to the top. If you haven't been there plan a trip now.