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The Enchanted Tower

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North (Left) Face 
South/Southeast (Right) Face 
West (Center) Face 

The Enchanted Tower Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,000'
Location: 34.23079, -107.91683 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 32,765
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Marta Reece, Jason Halladay, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Feb 15, 2006
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Enchanted Tower at night in August. flickr.com/th...

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Description 

What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. One the easiest and most obvious (and therefore most popular) routes on the Tower proper is Golden Stairs at 5.11c (originally rated 5.12a). This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath (5.13a). Bring the big guns!

The Tower is commonly broken up into three distinct faces. The typically shaded North (Left) Face, the typically sunny West (Center) Faceand the South/Southeast (Right) Face.

Climbing began at the Tower in the early 80s when students at the nearby New Mexico Tech college in Socorro were tipped off about a huge "mushroom rock" by a local forest service ranger. This great historical account of the early days at the Tower by Philip Simon is a must-read.

Getting There 

If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.7 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',4],['5.12',15],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Enchanted Tower

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Enchanted Tower:
Grendel   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 80'   North (Left) Face
Once Upon a Time   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   North (Left) Face
Golden Stairs   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Hippogriff   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 80'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Flotsam & Jetsam   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 70'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
White Witch   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 85'   North (Left) Face
Technowitch   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   North (Left) Face
Rumplestiltskin   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   North (Left) Face
Full Rubber Mission   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 95'   North (Left) Face
Jabberwocky   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 95'   North (Left) Face
Glenda   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   North (Left) Face
Tinkerbell's Nightmare   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 80'   North (Left) Face
Straight On Til Morning   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   North (Left) Face
The Hunting of the Snark   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 110'   West (Center) Face
Zee Wicked Witch   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   West (Center) Face
Shipwrecked   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 80'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Ripped Van Winkle   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   West (Center) Face
Mad Hatter   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   West (Center) Face
Goliath   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 110'   South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Enchanted Tower

Featured Route For The Enchanted Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Matthew NM on the jugs just past the lower crux of...

Goliath 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  NM : Enchanted Tower : ... : South/Southeast (Right) Fac...
An amazing line. Start up Golden Stairs and continue up arete. Pass through some technical moves on the arete to a decent rest. Rest up and continue up to the mid anchor then fight the pump through the overhang, another decent but strenuous rest can be had here. Move past the overhang and onto the arete and pull the crux moves to get established on the finishing slab. The crux moves while only V3+ or so, feel much more difficult after all that climbing to get there. To the mid anchors is D...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM

Photos of The Enchanted Tower Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Dark, starry nights at the Tower. September 2014.
Dark, starry nights at the Tower. September 2014.
Rock Climbing Photo: Ring-tailed cat at the Enchanted Tower, NM.
Ring-tailed cat at the Enchanted Tower, NM.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber on the west face of The Tower. This pictur...
Climber on the west face of The Tower. This pictur...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nea...
The Tower in full enchantment illuminated by a nea...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Enchanted Tower in all its Glory
The Enchanted Tower in all its Glory
Rock Climbing Photo: Victor on Zee Wicked Witch (I believe.)
Victor on Zee Wicked Witch (I believe.)
Rock Climbing Photo: Summer night view of the Tower
Summer night view of the Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick on Jabberwocky.
Nick on Jabberwocky.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Tower Goliath followes the arete along the sun...
The Tower Goliath followes the arete along the sun...

Comments on The Enchanted Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006
The overhanging arete on the Enchanted Tower has to be one of the most striking lines in the southwest. A number of routes start on the lower section of the arete and branch off. Goliath 5.13 takes it 110 ft. to the top. If you haven't been there plan a trip now.
By grog m
Nov 17, 2015
What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish...
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 17, 2015
grog m wrote:
What's up with NM folks arguing about letter grades? 11b or 11c? 12c or 12d? haha it's a little sprayish...

Hate to break it to you but that's just climbers in general, not just NM. :)

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