What can you say about this? Many areas have striking formations that are just begging to be climbed. They don't beg any harder than this one! The inverted wedge of Enchanted Tower features lots of hard routes on usually overhanging rock. One the easiest and most obvious (and therefore most popular) routes on the Tower proper is Golden Stairs
at 5.11c (originally rated 5.12a).
This is likely the only route you'll encounter a line on. From there, the difficulty goes all the way into the 5.13's, including the amazing and picturesque Goliath
(5.13a). Bring the big guns!
The Tower is commonly broken up into three distinct faces. The typically shaded North (Left) Face
, the typically sunny West (Center) Face
and the South/Southeast (Right) Face
Climbing began at the Tower in the early 80s when students at the nearby New Mexico Tech college in Socorro were tipped off about a huge "mushroom rock" by a local forest service ranger. This great historical account
of the early days at the Tower by Philip Simon is a must-read.
If you can't find the Tower, you're in big trouble! Trails come up from the parking area below and also from the areas across to the left. Approach time about two minutes.
Weather station 5.7 miles from here
22 Total Routes
['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Enchanted Tower
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Enchanted Tower:
Featured Route For The Enchanted Tower
Full Rubber Mission 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b NM
: Enchanted Tower
: ... : North (Left) Face
Clip the first bolt of Jabberwocky and bust right and upwards past 2 more bolts through some sequency moves, then pass 3 more bolts to the mid anchors and a great rest. Rest up (for longer then you think you need to) and continue past 6 more bolts on 2 finger pockets that get you pumped for the final steep finish. While there is a sequence that will make this feel easy, figuring it out while pumped is difficult. While most of the tower 12b's might be easy for the grade this one is solid. To ...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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By 1Eric Rhicard
Feb 28, 2006
The overhanging arete on the Enchanted Tower has to be one of the most striking lines in the southwest. A number of routes start on the lower section of the arete and branch off. Goliath 5.13 takes it 110 ft. to the top. If you haven't been there plan a trip now.