From I-80, exit onto Hwy. 20 and drive four miles toward Nevada City. After 3.5 miles turn north onto Bowman Lake Rd. and drive for 1.3 miles. Just before the bridge that crosses the Yuba River There is a dirt access road (this road is now gated and locked so you will have to walk in). After walking 750 yards on this dirt road you will see a cairn on the right take this trail to access the Benches section (except Steel Monkey and Three Unknown Climbs). Continue on this dirt road another 470 yards and you will reach some boulders on your right with a cairn that this trail 100 yards and you will come to Steel Monkey Wall on the right. (Continue above Steel Monkey Wall for Three Unknown Climbs) For a Topo of all these locations and GPS coordinates see the “Photo’s of the Emeralds” on this page. If you are only going to the Gorge the easiest way to get there is to park in the Spaulding Lake boat launch parking and walk over the dam to the first set of flood gates (approx 1/4 mile past the dam) Just before the flood gates go to the outlet side of the flood gates and cross the drainage. Continue on the rim of the drainage approx 300 feet until you come to some Metolius Rap anchors located about shoulder high. (There are other anchors located at your feet or over the edge before you get here but don't rap on these) Rap off these anchors using a 70m rope and you can climb back out the same way you rappelled on a 10c climb.
If you are looking for an area where you can climb without crowds and be in a beautiful mountain setting, this is the place. There is even a huge world class swimming hole that is Emerald green. (expect beautiful people here with little on in the hot days of summer) Most of the climbs in the Benches section are Westerly to Northerly facing so you can chase shade all day in the hotter months. (When the temperature is 110 in Sacramento, head for the gorge where you will need a sweater. Carville's 1999 Guide to "The Gorge" is the lasted published info but much of the routes changed due to flooding in 1997. In 2010 to 2012 Carville and friends restored many of the original lines and added many more but in the winter of 2013 another flood made much of the gorge deeper so the first bolts on many of the climbs were very high. That problem was fixed in the summer of 2013 and the area is again ready for some great climbing. Very little specific route info is available on Mountain Project but Josh Horniak is getting a new guide out that will rectify that problem in the spring of 2014 The Gorge and the Wishing Well are located below the outlet gates of Spaulding Reservoir and in the spring and winter can be subject to flooding if the gates are opened or if water is going over the gates. Once the lake level is below the bottom of the gates, which usually occurs in the spring, there is no possibility of flooding. It is easy to determine the level of the lake by hiking to the gates and looking. This potential flooding only refers to the Gorge and the Wishing Well. The Benches section including Fast Food Wall, Steel Monkey Wall, The Fortress, Bear’s Lair, Three Unknown Climbs and Kudos Kliff are well away from flooding potential) Now back to the Benches areas: The rock is generally steep (not much face climbing here) and well featured. It often feels like limestone. There has been a lot of new development in the area since 2008. The approaches are moderate and well marked especially if you use the 3 page guide at the bottom of this page. If you are a 5.7 to 5.9 climber, this area is not for you. (Yet anyway. Brad has plans to change that but you know Brad) There is a lot of potential for new routes even in the 5.7 to 5.9 range. This area is climbable all year except for winter if it has been snowing or raining and the routes are wet. There is an organized campground at Spaulding Lake or nice dispersed sites on the Bowman Lake road and elsewhere. The Emeralds are divided into two distinct sections as defined in Mike Carville’s 1991 Tahoe Guide Book. One section is The Gorge which includes The Wishing Well and the other section is called The Benches and includes Fast Food Wall, Kudo’s Kliff, Fortress, Bear’s Lair, Two Unknown Climbs and Steel Monkey Wall.
WARNING! (This Warning only applies to the Gorge Section and not the Benches Section). As the sign posted at the parking lot reminds you, this area is subject to sudden and severe flooding, especially in run off times (spring and winter). Most of the climbing routes in the gorge are in the potential flooding areas, as walls of the gorge sit below several LARGE floodgates from Spaulding Lake. These gates may open at any time, and as the sign in the parking area states, there may or may not be warning. Being in the gorge when the gates open would probably mean death, and being in the other climbing areas will mean that your exit is blocked until flood waters reside. Read all posted signs in the parking area, and also beware that these may not be updated.
61 Total Routes
['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',24],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',8],['Bomb',0]
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BETA PHOTO: Guide to the Emeralds. Page 1
BETA PHOTO: Guide to the Emeralds. Page 2
BETA PHOTO: Guide to the Emeralds. Page 3
I believe this route is called Atlantis and is in ...
Hansi sending 3 Minute Hero .12a. Emeralds Upper G...
Josh heading up Whirl Pool .12a. Need a 70 meter r...
Hansi - third ascent of Drama Queen .12a. Emeralds...
Dylan on Separation Anxiety .11d. Wishing Well. Em...
Peter Mayfield on an early ascent of the steep and...
The mega classic Resurrection .11c. Emeralds, Uppe...
Super Alpine Route Direct .11a. Emeralds, CA.
5 Minute Hero .12- Emeralds, Upper Gorge.
Deep water soloing on a great boulder problem at t...
|By Cave Man McElroy|
Jun 25, 2012
(Before accepting the following comments regarding the flooding potential of the Emeralds, please read the Emeralds "Description")
There are several climbing locations in and around the emeralds area. The (sort of sketchy/often flooded area (upper gorge etc)) is more easily approached via lake spalding (i.e. park on HWY20 and ride bike down and over the lake spalding dam...better for end of the summer/when it's been dry for a long time.
Some other (more safe/non-flooded) climbing is more easily appraoched via bowman lake road. This area includes a climb called "Steel Monkey" '12a' epic 4/5 star sport climb on a slightly overhanging wall.
|By mike carville|
Feb 16, 2013
Great new climbs by Brad Johnson and John Robinson at the Kudos/Fast Food cliff. Walk another 15 minutes northeast and you'll find the old Emeralds' Gorge. A new Tahoe Guide book from Josh Horniak will have all the routes in the Emeralds/Bowman Area (fall 2013).
There are now 27 newly bolted lines in the Gorge ranging from .10-.13. The greatest concentration of routes is in the .11 range. Some of these routes require a 70 meter rope. Dam Release/high water in spring is a very dangerous issue here. Other than that the Gorge climbing is great and the Wishing Well remains cool even in July/August when the rest of the Emeralds is hot.
|By mike carville|
Mar 30, 2013
Emeralds is bone dry and in season as of 3/30/13!