The Emerald Highway 5.10+
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | J. Thompson, D. Haller, B. Collett, July, 2010 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Ben Collett on Jul 11, 2010 |
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BETA PHOTO: The route.
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Description This route follows mostly continuous cracks for the length of the wall. With a few more ascents, it is a really nice continuous outing.
1) Start up a shallow, left-facing corner. After about 40 feet, it ends at a ledge. Above the ledge is an arch. Follow the arch to its apex, and face climb up to a small ledge above below another arch. 90 feet, 5.10+.
2) Climb over the arch, clip a bolt and climb left past a second bolt to a shallow left facing corner. Follow this until you can step left on to a ledgy system and a two bolt belay. 5.10-, 90 feet.
3) Head towards the large obvious corner. Climb up into the corner system using a nice hand crack on the left to avoid the blank section in the beginning. Belay at a two bolt belay on the right wall. 5.10, 140 feet.
4) Continue up the crack system passing a roof and belaying at the base of a chimney. 95 feet, 5.10+.
5) Follow the chimney to easier ground and belay at a grassy ledge. 150 feet, 5.9.
6) Climb straight up over a couple of short walls and find yourself at the base of a chimney after about 80 feet. Follow this to its end and make your way to the top of the wall. 5.7.
Location On the right side of the Black Wall, there are two prominent roofs that are about 300 feet above the talus. Between the two roofs is an obvious dihedral system. The Emerald Highway follows that system. It starts in a wavy flake system below the dihedral.
Per doug haller: the route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior.
Protection Cams from small to #5 C4. Nuts.
BETA PHOTO: Ben Collet, start of P1, FA.
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BETA PHOTO: At the base of P1, Ben and Josh.
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BETA PHOTO: P1-2, Just the traverse of P2.
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BETA PHOTO: P2 from the belay atop P1.
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BETA PHOTO: P3. Doug Haller enjoying the clean hand crack, 5.8...
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BETA PHOTO: P5: Start with hard moves above the P4 roof. Throu...
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BETA PHOTO: P6: Scramble to the summit via the most direct rou...
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We linked P1 & P2, this picture is after clipping ...
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Looking up the what the route description called P...
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Mike Keegan half way up the 10+ dihedral pitch, th...
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| Comments on The Emerald Highway |
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By Jay Brown
Jul 12, 2010
| Where is the route in relation of the others??? |
By doug haller
Jul 12, 2010
| The route starts below and to climber's right of both Good Evans and Road Warrior. |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 15, 2010
| ...that's WAY right of GE and RW.....like the complete other side of the wall.
josh |
By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Jul 29, 2012
| The bottom half of this route has been retrobolted (by the FAs) and redone as part of this route:
mountainproject.com/v/rainbow-highway/107724863
It's a harder and more direct line.
The upper part of Emerald can also be used to bail off quickly if the need should arise.
Enjoy!
josh |
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 20, 2012
| Pitch 1 10+:
We linked the 2 first pitches together, be sure to use all 24" and 48" runners, we had rope drag at the anchor. Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse.
Pitch 2 10a:
From the 1st bolted belay to the 2nd bolted belay at the large roof, scrambling to the corner without much gear, great splitter crack to bolted belay.
Pitch 3 10+:
2nd bolted belay till 3rd bolted belay, awesome corner likely the crux of the route, without the face holds this route would go much harder, AWESOME pitch, 1 bolt leaving corner heading to belay.
Pitch 4 5.9:
Corner/chimney (lots of loose rock) to easy ground.
Pitch 5 5.9:
We followed route to the immediate right of Rainbow Highway, unprotected, dirty corner, crux being wide flake 2 steps below Rainbow Highway upper rap anchor
Would recommend Rainbow finish instead of Emerald. We carried doubles (Metolius #00 - BD #4) and full set nuts, did not set #4 and could have minimized small selection.
Nice work, Ben, Doug and Josh, for the bolts and belays!
| Our version of Emerald Highway, arrows/numbers show belay, green line shows variation.
(Picture by Ben Collett.)
Submitted By: Kevin Gillest on Aug 21, 2012
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By J. Thompson
From: denver, co
Sep 4, 2012
| "Would be a much different pitch without those 2 bolts on the upper traverse. "
I can assure you it was! I led it onsight on the FA, without the bolts. It was...heady.
Have Fun!
josh |
By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Sep 9, 2012
| Nice work, was hoping to get back this season before the snow flies. |
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