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5. Children's Crusade Wall
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Beelzebub Corner, The T 
Boy's Brigade T 
Children's Crusade T 
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Eliminate, The T 
Problem Child T,S 
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Reign of Fire T 
Revolt of the Dike Brigade T 

The Eliminate 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: FA. P. Ross, F. Dean, M. Bowin 9/19/71 FFA 1,2,3 & 5 Doug Madara & Mark Richey 1978 4 & 6 P. Boissenault & F. Modugno 10/82
Page Views: 1,090
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Nov 9, 2009

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Description 

The Eliminate is one of the best long routes in the White Mountains. It climbs a direct line up the left side of the Children's Crusade Wall. The climb is surprisingly steep, with only one pitch, the third, feeling particularly slabby. The last two pitches climb through multiple roofs at the very top of the wall.

The climbing on The Eliminate is very sustained, with all pitches clocking in at 10d or harder. The protection is not particularly mindless. More often than not, finding suitable pro takes cunning and a cool head. Brassies in incipient seams and small cams behind blocks are the norm, especially on the first, fourth, and fifth pitches.

Pitch 1: 5.10d. The pitch, known as The Eliminate Direct, climbs up a corner and past a roof. The crux is pulling the roof and the pro is a bit complicated. Pull the roof and then wander up to a tree belay at the base of the crux corner. Some choose to avoid this pitch by climbing the dirty wide corner to the right at 5.7.

Pitch 2: 5.11c. This is the crux pitch. Stem between the tree and the wall and clip a high bolt. Make a committing transition move onto the wall. It is also possible to climb directly up the wall without using the tree (stick clip the bolt). Once established in the slight corner, follow it to its top and clip another bolt. From here, head directly left along a ledge and execute a 5.8R mantle to another ledge. Walk back right and belay at a fixed pin anchor.

Pitch 3: 5.10d. A long pitch. Climb the left facing corner to its end. The corner starts out slabby (crux) and thin, but steepens and widens until it forms a beautiful fingercrack layback. When the corner ends, wander up and right, past loose blocks and bushes, to a two bolt anchor below the steeper upper pitches.

Pitch 4: 5.10d PG-13. Head up through the overhangs above the belay. The pro is tricky here, as some blocks seem a bit more loose than others. Awkward climbing leads past a fixed knifeblade that can be backed up with some brass offsets. The pitch ends at a two bolt belay on a little ledge.

Pitch 5: 5.10d. Head straight up off the belay (10c), clipping a fixed pin for pro. At the next ledge, clip a bolt and traverse directly right (10d) into the steep, hanging dihedral. Climb up the dihedral, past four pins, to an exit on the right. From this airy stance, traverse right and pull an easy roof at the very top of the cliff. Belay at two bolts. Most parties rap from here.

Pitch 6: 5.8. If you choose, climb dirty rock to the top of the cliff.


Protection 

The protection is often tricky. Bring micro nuts, and doubles of the smallest cams you have up to .5 Camalot. Singles from .75 to #2 Camalot.

To rappel, bring two ropes.


Comments on The Eliminate Add Comment
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By apross
Nov 10, 2009

I agree, its a superb route and probably still does not see much traffic?, shame.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 6, 2010

great climb, sustained and varied. offsets and "0 tcu's.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Apr 26, 2010

Best long route on the Butt. Your gonna love the next pitches and then it's time for south buttress direct 11b r AO
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 27, 2010

NICE, I even added the FA so I wouldn't peve anybody off. Damn!
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Apr 27, 2010

I swiped your FA info before deleting the route. Thanks man.

Do you think this belongs on the Wonder Wall page? I thought that since it starts close to Children's Crusade, it should be here, but it certainly comes close to other Wonder Wall routes up high.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Apr 28, 2010

Thanks Jay, no, you're right. It does belong here as the climb defines the left margin of the childrens crusade wall and the long corner of pitch 2-3 is a good natural boundry.
By Morgan Patterson
Administrator
Nov 9, 2012

Since you're using the tree to stem off isn't this technically an aid line?
By john strand
From: southern colo
Nov 10, 2012

You don't have to use the tree but, it's a pretty nasty fall if you come off before the first gear.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Nov 12, 2012

There is a stick for a stickclip at the belay. cLIP IT AND climb fro the ground. Great route.