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 ADVANCED
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aenea S 
Amarillo By Morning S 
Brachiation Dance S 
Don't Mess With Muleshoe S 
Endymion S 
Goldline S 
Hyperion S 
Lonestar S 
Poke Salad Annie S 
Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer S 
She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy S 
Skyline S 
Urban Cowboy S 
Yellow Rose of Texas S 
Unsorted Routes:

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Location: 34.51306, -118.40143 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 10,728
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on May 25, 2011
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You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
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Sometime over the long hot summer this memorial an...

Description 

The Elephant's Head is the 1st rock formation encountered on the approach to Texas Canyon and by far the largest. This formation is easily distinguished, from the trail, by the large caves on its east face and its huge slabby south face, Hyperion Slab. The majority of the longer climbs at Texas Canyon are located on the south and west faces of the Elephant's Head. The Pangea Wall lies on the north face. Its west face forms the east wall of the First Corridor. The formation is about 200 ft. high.

Getting There 

From the parking area on the west side of the road, walk up the road past the locked white gate. When the crag comes into sight, look for a trail on the right that diagonals down to the right. Continue following the dirt track downhill and skirt the large formation with the caves to the left. Hyperion Slab is the huge slab on the south side of the formation, with the roof or overhang on the lower portion.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

14 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',3],['5.9',1],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for ':
Hyperion   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Urban Cowboy   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Yellow Rose of Texas   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Endymion   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Browse More Classics in '

Featured Route For '
Shallow pockets and good protection are the rule on "Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer."

Pretty Good at Drinkin' Beer 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : '
Begin climbing the overhang below two large inclusions, left of the tree. From a pocket, pull or lieback up and onto the inclusions. Continue working up the face on shallow pockets and edges to a hole (3rd bolt) below a large fractured inclusion. Work up and right on shallow pockets and edges to the ridge line. Climb the right edge of the slab past a 5th bolt and a run out to the anchor. It is difficult to clean this route from the anchor due to the leaning nature of the line. Careful of the swi...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of ' Slideshow Add Photo
Looking down the first pitch of Goldline.  After the fifth bolt it's about 30ft to the belay anchor.  It's technically easy (maybe 5.4) but the runout can be a little intimidating because a slip just before the anchor could put you on the ground if you go off the right side of the slab.
Looking down the first pitch of Goldline. After t...
On the Hyperion Slab pulling  on Sexy Tractor.
On the Hyperion Slab pulling on Sexy Tractor.
Hyperion Slab from the southwest.
Hyperion Slab from the southwest.
On the slab below the roof of the lower portion of The Chicken/Hyperion Slab.
On the slab below the roof of the lower portion of...
There are several new lines on the east face of the Elephant Head. The ear on the right and the trunk on the left.
There are several new lines on the east face of th...
Climbers vying for routes on the Hyperion Slab.
Climbers vying for routes on the Hyperion Slab.
Climbers using the lower slab of Hyperion Slab to teach footwork and belaying.
Climbers using the lower slab of Hyperion Slab to ...
Eddie leading on the slab at Texas Canyon
Eddie leading on the slab at Texas Canyon
Enjoying warm sunny rock on The Chicken/Hyperion Slab.
Enjoying warm sunny rock on The Chicken/Hyperion S...
Party Time!
Party Time!
Kids playing at the base of Hyperion Slab.
Kids playing at the base of Hyperion Slab.
Climbing "She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy."
Climbing "She Thinks My Tractor's Sexy."
The Chicken
The Chicken
The south facing "Hyperion Slab" at Texas Canyon is about 200 ft tall. Routes here are rated by their hardest moves. Much of the climbing is in the low 5th class range. All routes are well bolted. On easy ground some run-outs of 30-40 may be needed.
BETA PHOTO: The south facing "Hyperion Slab" at Texa...
Late afternoon descending on the Elephant Head.
Late afternoon descending on the Elephant Head.
Soil erosion at the base of Hyperion Slab after some heavy rains. Perhaps the slab is increasing in size due to the erosion.
Soil erosion at the base of Hyperion Slab after so...
A prime example of "parallel play" on the moderate face routes of the south face of the Elephant's Head (Hyperion Slab).
A prime example of "parallel play" on th...

Comments on ' Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeff Edge
Apr 29, 2013
There are 2 routes to the left of Amarillo by Morning I climbed Saturday, the one immediately to the left felt easy-mid 11ish (admittedly more on the easy side once I got the moves worked out), the one to the left of that felt like maybe 5.9 and shared anchors with a route one more to the left that looked even easier.

Anybody know anything about these? Or what the "11" actually goes at?
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Apr 30, 2013
There are actually three routes left of "Amarillo by Morning." Each route has its own 2-ring Fixe anchor.
L to R......(as you're facing the rock)
"Poke Salad Annie" (5.8) 6 bolts
"Urban Cowboy" (5.9) 7 bolts
"Lonestar" (5.10d/11a) 5 bolts
"Amarillo by Morning" (5.10a/b) 8 bolts
By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Aug 2, 2013
Thank you, Ben!! Now I have it figured out!