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Sun Wall
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The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test 

YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c/d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: FA Jeff Burton, Mark Stroud, Bill Tennent (85), FFA Douglas Swords
Season: Any
Page Views: 4,204
Submitted By: chummer on Jan 14, 2008

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The angle is a bit funny. One of many failed atte...

Description 

Best route name ever. This is a beautiful piece of stone and one of the coolest routes in North Carolina. This climb requires a nice mix of power, finesse, and a bit of boldness. MUCH harder to lead than toprope, fall above the crux and its pretty much a mandatory 20 footer with slab smacking potential. The top eases off technically but pro is scant and thin.


Location 

Located on the Sun Wall, down and right from the Nose area, this climb is the obvious arching right facing corner. NOTE: This is the first pitch of Psychedelic Delusions of the Digital Man done free.

Protection 

Lots of RP's, small tcu's up to .75 camalot


Photos of The Electric Kool-Aid Acid Test Slideshow Add Photo
My hand drawn beta topo.   Easier to read if you enlarge it.
BETA PHOTO: My hand drawn beta topo. Easier to read if you e...

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By chummer
Jan 14, 2008

I would love to learn more about the history of this climb. I spent A LOT of time working on this thing. I flashed it on toprope first try but it took me another couple of years to finally lead it free and even then with some fixed gear at the crux.

I doubt it has ever been onsighted but who knows. Would love to hear more stories. I used to take 20+ footers on the first bolt that was sticking halfway out of the rock. Yikes! This is one of my favorite climbs ever.
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Aug 4, 2008

For us mere mortals it is a dandy aid route too.
By jeep gaskin
Mar 7, 2012

since there has been an increase in interest in this route lately i guess i should chime in. eddie didn't do the first free ascent and neither did i. he aided it, top roped it, fixed the gear and then led it. i never worked it from the top down and after many tries led it but never without falling off. the best i did was to pull the rope after falling and then lead through clean. i managed that several times. the true free ascent belongs to someone else and they should claim it. the route is world class. i do want to make 1 additional point: when eddie and i were working it there were only 2 bolts and at least in my case, no other fixed gear. be strong young people. let the rock teach you how.
By Eddie Begoon
Jul 22, 2012

A beautiful Sunday morning and here I am looking around on the internet and found these postings. This is my first post on a forum so I hope to get it right.

Jeep's info on our style while working on the acid test is incorrect. We did not aid, tr or preplace gear but worked it the proper way by walking to the base and started climbing. We were on a week long trip to NC and dedicated two days of work to the route, my best effort was on the second day when I got through the crux and near the top, bone headed an easy move and peeled off. So no, me or Mike did not ring the bell but were happy enough with it and moved on to other climbing. As Jeep stated, when we were on the route only two bolts were on it. The gear in between is plenty adequate if one is accustom to placeing small pro on steep rock.

The word I got was that Jeep and Whitney placed the extra bolts during their stay on the route. Did my info come from the same source as Jeep's?

This route is mega classic and deserves a proper send, I know the talent exists in NC to do the deed. While you are at it, remove all but the original two bolts and return it to a sporting adventure.
By Edward Medina
Administrator
From: Brighton, CO
Jul 23, 2012

A few parties had done the route before Doug Swords redpointed it. There was some debate about whether preplacing the draws on the bolts constituted pre placement of gear. If it does, then the proper FFA belongs to Doug since he placed all gear (including quickdraws) on lead.
By chummer
Sep 14, 2012

Great history. Thanks for shedding some light on the history of this climb. Which 2 bolts were placed later? I'm guessing maybe the first and last?
By rock_fencer
From: Columbia, SC
Apr 3, 2014

this is one route that it would be nice to keep the semantics of who did what and in what style out of the picture. Its such a good climb that tainting it with these things is a disservice to all who send. Keep the politics out...we have enough of it in NC