Anyone who slags Shelf for being too slabby (as I sometimes do when my terrible footwork is exposed) should definitely get on this climb.
Campus the initial overhang into a pod, then swing though pleasant moves on big holds for about 20 feet. At the fourth bolt, the jug-hauling ends abruptly. A big crank from thin holds to thinner ones is where your onsight attempt ends. Suss out the reachy crux move, cruise throught the 5.11 moves on ther upper face, and pull your cord for the redpoint.
This is a great climb (but watch out for a sharp, right hand pocket when setting up for the crux -- I sliced my finger wide open in it).
How is this not 3 stars?? Freaking awesome! Some of the most continuously high quality rock and movement at Shelf.
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Jul 26, 2005 rating: 5.12b/c7b+27IX-E6 6b
Excellent route. The crux is brief, but the climbing above the bulge is fun.
By Bill Ballace From: Pullman,WA Feb 3, 2006 rating: 5.12b7b26VIII+E5 6b
The key to this route was moving through the steep lower part quickly. There is a place to shake out and chalk before the crux but I couldn't get a great rest here so dialing the steepness was a must. Definitely one of the more unique routes at Shelf and a nice change of pace from the mostly vertical climbing there.
The anchors are ok (so-so). There is a bomber hanger with a beefy rap-ring and then a homemade hanger with a rather thin, worn-out rap-ring. Chopping the questionable rap-ring and adding a new one would be nice.
This route is one of the best at the Gym area. Stellar climbing leads to a desperate crank off some funky pinches. I think the crux is getting the proper body position for the big move up to the right hander. There are lots of things to hold onto in the crux area before you toss up and right. I am pretty solid at this grade and thought the crux felt quite hard. Nonetheless, this route is awesome!!!
To whoever stole my quickdraws off this route after I had left them up there for about 12 hours, that was really lame. I'd say it was pretty obvious it was not booty, but you probably already knew that.