BETA PHOTO: View from the turnout / parking lot of the egg. Ph...
It does look like and egg. 5.10 - 5.12 Sport routes on two sides, and some easier (5.7 - 5.9?) top ropeable slab climbs on the back (North?) side. It's an egg, it sits right on the beach so when there's sun, you'll be in the sun on one side of the rock. When there's fog, or rain, you're going to be exposed and cold.
Rock is solid serpentine and greywacke that's fairly easy on the fingers.
Currently, I believe this is part of the state parks system, so there aren't any access issues, other than that the park closes at sunset.
If you're going to climb the egg, and up for a challenge, you should try egghead, which is a "5.11b" that could easliy go for 5.12a other places in the area.
The climbs on the beta photo below are as follows:
1) Egghead (5.11b)
2) Jungle Work (5.12a t.r.)
3) This is your Brain on Drugs (5.12c)
4) Sign Language (5.10c)
There are two recommended ways to get to the egg:
The first is pretty burny on the knees and feet.Time: 10 - 15 minutes down, 15 - 20 up.From the main parking lot, get back in your car, and drive back down the coast about 1/2 a mile to a pullout. You can spot the egg from the road at this pullout. The pullout is located about halfway between the main parking lot and the Steep Ravine cabins entrance. It's also the only prominent pullout that doesn't have a no parking sign on it. From a trail that starts on the right side of the pullout head down towards the beach. Once you reach the beach, head left until you reach the egg. See the photos of the egg and the view from the parking lot.
The second approach will take a little longer, but if you're injured, tired or just plain lazy this is the route for you.Time: Unknown.Park at the gate for the Steep Ravine Cabins, and head down the paved trail. Once you get to the main campground area, head right along the coast about 100 yards until you get to the egg.
Weather station 3.5 miles from here
10 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Egg
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Egg
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Egg:
Sunnyside Up 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Egghead 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
R Sport, 60'
Featured Route For The Egg
Shell Shock 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b CA
: San Francisco Bay Area
: ... : The Egg
The crux comes right off the ground and is basically a boulder problem getting past the first bolt, about V5. Bring a stick clip for the first bolt or you can solo up the 5.easy southeast face and rap to the anchor bolts, then rap down the route again to get a draw clipped on the bolt. A new bolt is going to be added soon so that a stick clip won't be necessary. This is a great route with a stout boulder problem off the ground to exciting arete climbing higher up. The upper section is a some...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
BETA PHOTO: View from the trail when you first get to the beac...
BETA PHOTO: A nice view of The Egg with cabins in background.
By Colonel Mustard
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 13, 2005
Definitely wouldn't advise going from Main Rock directly to the Egg. The ridgeline is crumbly with nasty falls, and the even the beach approach forces you to scale crumbly rocks with backpacks on. Somebody (He Man?) told us it was the best way. No way! Go through the campgrounds or the other approach and save your nervous energy for the climbs!
Jan 16, 2014
Here's the GPS to plug into google: 37.885731,-122.629652
By Max McKinnon
From: San Jose, CA
Sep 13, 2015
Recommend taking the twice as long paved trail. I went directly down and when I grabbed a boulder for support, a HUGE 100lb+ piece came rolling off, and despite being loaded with gear, I barely avoided losing a toe. I came away with just scratches on my shin and hands from getting out of the way in the rough terrain. It would probably be fine without gear, but with gear, it was too treacherous.
Fun little climbing area. Recommend stick clipping the first bolt.