BETA PHOTO: View from the turnout / parking lot of the egg. Ph...
Description
It does look like and egg. 5.10 - 5.12 Sport routes on two sides, and some easier (5.7 - 5.9?) top ropeable slab climbs on the back (North?) side. It's an egg, it sits right on the beach so when there's sun, you'll be in the sun on one side of the rock. When there's fog, or rain, you're going to be exposed and cold.
Rock is solid granite that's fairly easy on the fingers.
Currently, I believe this is part of the state parks system, so there aren't any access issues, other than that the park closes at sunset.
If you're going to climb the egg, and up for a challenge, you should try egghead, which is a "5.11b" that could easliy go for 5.12a other places in the area.
The climbs on the beta photo below are as follows:1)Egghead (5.11b)2)Jungle Work (5.12a t.r.)3) This is your Brain on Drugs (5.12c)4) Sign Language (5.10c)
Getting There
There are two recommended ways to get to the egg:
The first is pretty burny on the knees and feet.Time: 10 - 15 minutes down, 15 - 20 up.From the main parking lot, get back in your car, and drive back down the coast about 1/2 a mile to a pullout. You can spot the egg from the road at this pullout. The pullout is located about halfway between the main parking lot and the Steep Ravine cabins entrance. It's also the only prominenet pullout that doesn't have a no parking sign on it. From a trail that starts on the right side of the pullout head down towards the beach. Once you reach the beach, head left until you reach the egg. See the photos of the egg and the view from the parking lot.
The second approach will take a little longer, but if you're injured, tired or just plain lazy this is the route for you.Time: Unknown.Park at the gate for the Steep Revine Cabins, and head down the paved trail. Once you get to the main campground area, head right along the coast about 100 yards until you get to the egg.
A third approach (not recommended) also appears possible, but I probably wouldn't try it, especially after seeing it at almost high tide.Time: Unknown.From the main rock at Mickey's Beach follow the coast east until you get to the egg. In high tide you're going to be swimming the rough rocky surf. In low tide the rocks are probably pretty slippery.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Egg:
The crux comes right off the ground and is basically a boulder problem getting past the first bolt, about V5. Bring a stick clip for the first bolt or you can solo up the 5.easy southeast face and rap to the anchor bolts, then rap down the route again to get a draw clipped on the bolt. A new bolt is going to be added soon so that a stick clip won't be necessary. This is a great route with a stout boulder problem off the ground to exciting arete climbing higher up. The upper section is a some...[more]Browse More Classics in CA
Definitely wouldn't advise going from Main Rock directly to the Egg. The ridgeline is crumbly with nasty falls, and the even the beach approach forces you to scale crumbly rocks with backpacks on. Somebody (He Man?) told us it was the best way. No way! Go through the campgrounds or the other approach and save your nervous energy for the climbs!
There is a very nice 5.8ish route on the east side (to the left of Egg Face) that is protected by two bolts to a one-bolt anchor. Not mentioned in the Tresa Black book or here. Also in the middle there is a single bolt to what looks like was a single bolt anchor. Getting to the anchor is quite run out and the only way to clip to the anchor is by using one of the two small slings left at it, so did not attempt.
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