| West Face - Right Side |
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The Edge 5.11a R
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Tobin Sorensen, 1975 |
| Submitted By: | Bruce Diffenbaugh on Feb 11, 2008 |
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On Edge.
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Description This route ascends the left edge/arete of the Open Book dihedral to the alcove below the true horn on desperate palming and smearing moves with two 40+ foot runout sections. The possibility of a fall off the edge of the dihedral is real thing. The climbing past there does not improve much! The run-out from the belay to the alcove is long and exposed. Everyone that has done this climb has a story to tell after. It gets my vote for the most balls-Z route ether side of the valley.
The Turbo Flange variation takes a direct start past a bolt to join the Edge from below. Truly a dynamic line!
Location Left of the Open Book.
Protection Bolts
Unknown climber on the Edge. 6-26-10
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Unknown climber on the Edge. 6-26-10
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By John Long
Jul 21, 2011
| There's no reason to do the old Edge. It was done before sticky boots and avoids the entire lower part of the true edge. The Turbo Flange takes the whole enchilada from the ground and should become standard as opposed to traversing in from another route. A little 5.11- down low but once you get past the first run out - to where the Flange connects with Tobin's original edge route, the climbing in never above low 5.10 but there's almost no protection. Don't rip, amigos.
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By Jonathan Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.11a R
| ^^^The moves at the first bolt on the arete on the original line are hard 5.10 as is the climbing directly off the belay on the second pitch. I agree that the runouts on p1 are never harder than low 5.10, but many of the moves are pretty insecure. The climbing off the belay on p2 is hard, runout, and insecure. |
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