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 ADVANCED
The Appendage
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bulge, The S,TR 
Butterface S 
Crisco Crack T 
Edge, The T 
Full Appendage S,TR 
Lead S 
Ledge, The S,TR 
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge S 

The Edge 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Knezek
Page Views: 1,542
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 17, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (50)
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Coming down victorious

Description 

This is the right line on the left set of anchors. Fun jams and good positions will get you to the present first bolt, which will clip with some muscle. Swing out onto the west face and clip the last bolt and head for the chains.

Again, too short for more than 1 star but better than Lead.

Protection 

4 bolts plus the chains.


Photos of The Edge Slideshow Add Photo
Off to a good start
Off to a good start
ready for belay
ready for belay
Top of The Edge
Top of The Edge

Comments on The Edge Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 24, 2014
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Mar 25, 2008

I agree that this climb is better than Lead. Some big, fun moves.
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008

Good first sport lead for someone...
By Lee Jensen
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Having led this route several times now I have a hard time understanding the 5.9 rating. Either it is contrived (only climb to the left on the face) or it is way overrated. If you use the holds on the right and then transition over to the left for the last bolt around the arete the route is super easy and you are never more than an arms reach from a bolt. I would suggest 5.7. Am I missing something here?
By Darren Knezek
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It was originally rated 5.9, but a huge bulge feature you had to pull over became loose. I went up with a crowbar and now that feature is on the ground. The route became considerably easier and in the new RC guidebook will be 5.7.
By Alma Madsen
From: Lehi, UT
Jun 15, 2009

When I climb this I don't touch the wall on the right. If you are wanting closer to a 9 feel, I suggest doing this, otherwise it's definitely closer to a 7.
By Sunny-D
From: SLC, Utah
Jul 17, 2009

I am trying to figure out why there are bolts six inches from an easy to protect crack? I climbed it and placed bomber gear all the way up the crack...
By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 17, 2009

The explanation involves two seriously injured climbers and threats from local law enforcement. Ask Darren if you truly want to know.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Aug 2, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

What are the ring anchors at the top for?
By Tristan Higbee
From: Cambodia
Aug 3, 2009

If you're referring to the anchors between The Edge and Only Wimps Toprope the Bulge, they're for the obvious trad line/chimney thing between those two routes. It's 5.3 or 5.5 or something. I don't remember. Something easy. The trad lines on The Appendage are all pretty fun and worth doing.
By Christopher Sorensen
From: Provo, UT
Aug 4, 2009
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Yeah, that's what I meant. Thanks.
By OldManRiver
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Aug 26, 2012

I really like the traverse 3/4 up to the jug. Interesting twist for a route of this grade. Nice route!
By Dakota Belliston
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Oct 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Watching people climb this route yesterday EVERYONE cheats to the side instead of following straight up the face. Thus everyone kept saying it was easy. However if you follow the route straight up the face and don't stray to the sides this route can be justified as a 5.9 . Don't cheat this route or you'll cut your fun !!!
By Tim Moore
Apr 8, 2014

Much closer to a 5.9 if you avoid the right wall that I am sure is off the right. Kinda weird finish wish it would've kept going up the face.
By Danny Cardoza
From: Provo, UT
Aug 24, 2014

My favorite lead in this area. TR isn't really doable with rope dragging over the edge (haha) and it just pulls you over onto "Lead." All in all, a fun climb--we'll have to come back and lead the crack on gear, looks like a lot of fun.