The Edge of Night  5.11+ R

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.11+ [details] FA:  Matt Samet, Steve Dieckhoff New Route:  Yes Fixed Hardware:  1 Lead Pin [details] Submitted By:  Pinklebear on Oct 13, 2001 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>> As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack. For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152 From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment Action Committee for Eldorado

Description 

This line climbs the nicely positioned roof and face left of Night on the Blackwalk Wall. With a 70-meter cord, you can reach the anchors on Night and lower to the ground but just barely. The route climbs through the brown rock just left (south) of the black plaque forming the center of Blackwalk Wall, then moves through a 3-foot roof onto the black rock itself.

A long stretch of easy, semi-protectable climbing (use long slings) leads to the base of the route proper. The easiest way here is via the ramp down and left of the ramp used to access Night, Back in Black, etc. Climb up and right on rough, wavy rock from the top of this ramp to encounter the first steep bit on the route.

Pass an old pin in the rotten purple band, stretch high for a good TCU under a small roof and climb up past crumbly edges and funky holes to the left-angling finger crack under the roof. Load the crack up with gear and move left along and under the lip of the roof, turning it when convenient. Easier climbing (5.9 s) on featured black rock "protected" by a lone RP takes you to the double Metolius anchors on Night.

Steve had brushed off some of the holds on rappel and told me about the line. I led it ground-up, onsight, with his good juju, and Steve followed clean.

Protection 

Bring lots of small to mid-range TCUs, a good selection of small-mid sized wires, some RPs, and long slings.