The Edge of Da-light  5.10

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch Consensus:  5.10 [details] FA:  John Steiger, Don Gallagher Submitted By:  dcohn on Mar 22, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Greg moving from the arete onto the 5.11 face crac...

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Description 

There are several variations on this route. I called this a 5.10 route because the original route was 5.10. Ray Ringle added the 5.11- variation.

As mentioned below, this route has several starts. It is no problem to start at the bottom of Slippery When Wet if you have a 60 M rope. If you do this, be sure not to create rope drag for the rest of the route. After the start, stay on the arete as much as possible. There is a bolt as the route diverges from Slippery. The protection gets a little sparse but the climbing isn't too hard. Eventually the route hits a small roof. Go right here. There are a few great cam placements to the right of the roof. I am not sure where the original route and the 11- variation diverge, but I think the original finish is on the arete or slightly left of it and the variation finishes right of the arete, through a steep face and a wide crack. No matter which variation you take, expect some fun exposure and sparse, but adequate pro.

Save some medium-sized pro for an anchor on top.

Location 

Southwest arete of North Fin, start on a ledge near the start of Nang or start on Slippery When Wet

Protection 

standard rack, maybe an extra red camalot