BETA PHOTO: Potential two pitch route with 2 finishes in the m...
Description
To the left of the Main Wall of Green's are a series of crags designated The Eastern Crags, though they are really more in a line running north and facing east. These are mostly undeveloped climbing wise, but offer promise of many future routes in a very beautiful setting. These crags overlook the wonderful Sawyer Ponds Scenic Area basin, with great views across the ponds to the cliffs of Mt. Tremont and Owls. Looking more SE you can see all the way to Mt. Chocorua, and north to Mt. Washington.
These cliffs offer a lot of features, with many good looking crack lines, mostly fingers and hands, but also including a surprising number of chimneys. Most of the cliffs are one or two pitches tall and a little off vertical. There are a few outlying slabs that may be worthy, judging from a cursory look.
I haven't yet explored the furthest north rock, but the only established route that I have been able to confirm to date is Ward and Paula Smith's Premarital Blisters. Aaron Rashaw did say he saw some bolted routes coming in from Livermore road, so there may be more hidden away.
The downside to this area, besides the approach, is that, though there are many really good looking lines, many of them look to need a lot of cleaning. The dedicated route developer will be able to find some great lines though.
The middle part of this area (shown here www.mountainproject.com/images/11/73/107271173_large_e37506.>>>, which probably has the most potential, is composed of two tiers of cliffband bounded on the north by a giant wet gully. The top of the gully is overhanging, but the lower portion is low angled enough to allow access between the bands. This gully undoubtedly would provide good ice climbing if you can get yourself out there in the winter.
Be aware, if you climb over here, that these crags lie within the Sawyer Ponds Scenic Area, so have somewhat more restrictive rules, including no camping or power tools. Be especially aware to be low impact visually and noise wise. You are basically in an amphitheater for anyone down at the ponds and it is a pretty magical spot. Luckily, since there are so many cracks, not many bolts should be needed. This is a place to go light in impact, by just going for the very best lines and leaving the rest be IMO.
Getting There
From right side of the Main Wall, drop down off the boulder ledge directly below the fire ring. You will find a narrow slot that acts like a stairway down. At the bottom, head left like you were going over to Eco Challenge, but then angle out from the wall and look for some tape. If you try to stay next to the wall, like if you were going to the top, you will end up bushwhacking through some very heavy vegetation further on. The tape will lead you along past boulders, slightly down, then up on to a plateau. Continue across the plateau and you will then drop down to a steep vegetated gully with deadfall and some 3rd class scrambling. It is a little hideous here. Fixing a bit of rope would make the way down and especially back up better. This gully will drop you down to the buttress on the left side of the unnamed upper tier wall.
To get to the lower tier, it is possible to continue straight down, but you are better off traversing under the unnamed wall until you get to the green gully and following it down to it's base. Take a right for Premarital Blisters or go left for the wall with the big orange arete and more rock.
It is about 20 minutes to get from the Main Wall over and scramble down to the upper tier.
Bushwhacking in from the north via Livermore rd and dropping over the top is reportedly very thick and difficult. There is a report from somebody who came in that way in the 3000ft register above the Alcove where they wished they had a gun so they could shoot themselves so they didn't have to go back. The approach directly from Sawyer Pond is blocked by a large marsh, but it may be doable in winter for ice climbing. Further exploration from the north may be fruitfull.
By M Sprague Administrator From: New England Sep 2, 2011
I posted up some photos from my recon trip over here late last fall so those who are in to exploring will have some idea what is there and the best approach. It was hard to get good shots through all the trees, but they should give some idea of the potential.
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