Mountain Project: Climbing Golden

This can be a great place to hang when the wind is howling, but you might want to wear a helmet for the rocks that can be blown off the top. It is very sheltered from prevailing winds and stays sunny till late afternoon in the winter. The crag has seen some bold, ground up routes developed. Bolted top out anchors seem to be the norm on the crack climbs. In addition to the trad routes, several bolted sport climbs have been established.

Getting There

This great little crag sits a few hundred yards east of The Quarry Wall. Follow the trail east until you encounter the crag on the left.

There is another trailhead that can be used to access this crag. To the east of the typical parking area near the Easley to CO 58 on ramp, you can go about 2 blocks further east to Ridge Rd. Turn north and go uphill. The road turns into Ulysses. Take it to its end. There is room for 5-6 cars here. The trail takes the right fork ~150 yards from the lot. It makes a U-turn/left turn higher up in the valley to connect with the traversing trail that goes under the East Quarry. Mountain bikers use this trail, too.

L->R:

Dogs

According to a Jefferson County Open Space ranger, dogs in the Jefferson County Open Space (including here) should be on leashes.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The East Quarry:

Nurse Shark 5.9- Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Hammerhead 5.9+ Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Sand Shark 5.10c/d Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Play With Your Balls 5.11a/b Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Defective Agency 5.11a/b Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Land Shark 5.11+ PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet

High Tide 5.11+ Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Jaws 5.11c/d R Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Slap Happy 5.11d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Hairless Dog 5.12a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait) 5.12b PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 45 feet

Old Man and the Sea 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet

Tendonkey Punch 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Deepwater Horizon 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Herringbone Direct 5.12+ R Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Flying Fish 5.12c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Chum 5.12c/d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet

Old Man And The Sea Direct 5.12c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet

Wooly Bully 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Tiger's Woody 5.13a Sport, 1 pitch, 55 feet

Comments on The East Quarry

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By Mark Rolofson
Aug 27, 2010

I have written and am about to publish a new guidebook that will include the climbs at the East Quarry, the other quarries on North Table and the Golden Cliffs. This guide titled "GOLDEN ROCK CLIMBS" will also include the sport climbs at nearby Golden Gate State Park. It should start to be available on September 10, 2010. I enjoy climbing at the East Quarry in the Winter months. It has become my favorite spot on North Table Mountain.

By RyanO
From: Golden, CO
Sep 13, 2010

Some people like 'em short and dirty, others like 'em long and graceful. Cracks, that is.

Watch out for the rattlers and take the longer trail, the one in the old North Table book is high impact and hard work.

Can't wait to see the new book!

By Mark Rolofson
Oct 12, 2010

"Golden Rock Climbs is now available for $20.00 retail and features 144 pages including 32 cliff diagram photos, 14 climbing photos, topo drawings, maps and text. The new guide includes the basalt climbs of the Golden Cliffs, South Quarry, East Quarry, Sea Cliffs, Crater Crag on North Table Mountain. For the warmer months, it includes the sport climbs of Golden Gate State Park near Dude's Fishing Hole (about 50 granite climbs).

By mike c
From: arvada ,co
Jan 11, 2011

This little quarry has proved more adventurous than I could have imagined...the gear routes here can be serious undertakings, and I would strongly suggest taking gently on some of the gear (aside from some of the bomber cracks) before falling with any significant force...maybe even top rope prior to leading on gear. Most of the harder trad lines were headpointed. There are some solid placements (in between marginal ones) on most of the routes, but most of the landings are severe. All were led ground up in one form or another. I did a little testing of some placements here and took some simulated hard falls. The gear held up for the first few falls pretty well, but after a few more the rock exploded along with the gear... I thought those placements were more sound than they appeared...I am learning new things every day...I can't believe how warm and comfortable it gets up there on cold but sunny winter days. If any one wants to go up and climb there, let me know. I would love to share this amazing resource. We can only keep what we have by giving it away!

By Pinklebear
Jan 21, 2012

Hi,

I found a pair of rock shoes today (Saturday 1/22) sitting out at North Table Mountain's East Quarry area, above Golden. Email me at msamet99@yahoo.com and describe them, and I'll get them back to you.

Thanks!

By maestro
Feb 29, 2012

What's the route to the right of Pinkerton? Bolted. Could go straight up or right over a block?

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The East Quarry

Description

Getting There

L->R:

Dogs

The Classics