The East Quarry Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The East Quarry Wall. All established routes are v...
This can be a great place to hang when the wind is howling, but you might want to wear a helmet for the rocks that can be blown off the top. It is very sheltered from prevailing winds and stays sunny till late afternoon in the winter. The crag has seen some bold, ground up routes developed. Bolted top out anchors seem to be the norm on the crack climbs. In addition to the trad routes, several bolted sport climbs have been established.
This great little crag sits a few hundred yards east of The Quarry Wall. Follow the trail east until you encounter the crag on the left.
There is another trail that can be used to access this crag. From the typical parking area (near the Easley to CO 58 on-ramp) you can go about 2 blocks further east to Ridge Rd. Turn north and go uphill. The road turns into Ulysses. Take it to its end. There's room for 5-6 cars here. The trail stays to the right ~100 yards from the lot to head up the valley. Take a left where the trail forks to continue up valley. Make a U-turn/left turn higher up in the valley to connect with the traversing trail that goes under the East Quarry. Mountain bikers use this trail, too.
Per Richard Border
: you can plug this into your gps for the 1st parking area: 3850 Easley Rd, Golden, CO 80403.
A1. Holy Mackerel
, 10 R, 1p, 50', gear (now bolts).
A2. Natural Born Topropers
, 8 or 9, 1p, 50', TR or gear (now bolts).
BA2. Hairless Dog
, 12-, 1p, bolts, 50',
, 11+, 1p, bolts, 55'.
D. Sea Urchin
, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear (now some bolts).
, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
F. Pretzel Logic
, 11, 1p, 40', bolts.
G1. Defective Agency
, 11-, 1p, bolts, 55'.
G2. Hellhound (originally submitted as Viagra Crack)
, 12 or A0, 1p, 50', bolt & gear.
H. High Tide
, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
I1. Battle of the Bulbus
, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
I2. Tendonkey Punch
, 12, 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
J. Sand Dollar
, 10-, 1p, bolts.
K. Sand Shark
, 10+, 1p, gear.
L. Asbury Park
, 11, 1p, 40', TR.
, 11+ PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
N. Jaws Part 2 (Shark Bait)
, 12- R, 1p, 45', gear & bolt.
, 12, 1p, TR.
P. Herringbone Direct
, 12+, 1p, 40', TR.
Q. Primary Chimney?
, 10 PG-13, 1p, 35', gear.
S. Pigeon of the Sea
, 11+, 1p, 35', bolts.
T. Slap Happy
, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
U. Play With Your Balls
, 11-, 1p, 50', gear.
V. The Goonch
, 13-, 1p, TR.
W. Flying Fish
, 12+, 1p, 40', bolts & gear.
XW. Sea Robin
aka "Old Hex Route" aka "n" crack, LFD, 8, 1p, 40', gear.
, RFD, 10-, 1p, 40', gear.
Z. Nurse Shark
, 9+, 1p, 40', gear.
AA1. Old Man and the Sea
, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
AA2. Old Man And The Sea Direct
, 11+ or 12+?, 1p, 45', bolts.
BB. Deepwater Horizon
, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
CC. Land Shark
, 11+, 1p, 40', gear.
, 10 PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
EE. Wooly Bully
, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
FF. Tiger Shark
, 11- PG-13, 1p, 40', gear.
GG. Tiger's Woody
, 13-, 1p, 55', bolts.
HH. S.S. Minnow
, 7, 1p, 50', gear.
, 11+, 1p, 40', bolts or TR.
JJ. Great Wide Shark
, 8-, 1p, 40', gear.
KK1. Crack var., 9, 1p, 40', gear.
KK2. Emilia's Corner
, 8+, 1p, 40', gear.
KK3. Dihedral var., 10+, 1p, 40', gear.
LL. Crack Au Lait
, 8, 1p, 50', gear.
MMNN. Bottoms Up
, 8 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
NN. Good Ju-Ju
, 8+ 1p, 50', gear & bolts.
OONN. Gargoyle Ju-Ju
, 8+, 1p, 50', gear & bolt.
PP. Deer Foot Chimney
, 5 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear or TR.
QQ. Side of Mouse
, 8+/9-, 1p, 50', TR.
RR. Isle of Mouse
, 8, 1p, 50', gear & bolts or TR.
SSRR. Curious George
, 8 (or 9), 1p, 45', TR.
TT. Pinnacle 2
, 9- PG-13, 1p, 45', gear.
UU. Narrow Face
, 10, 1p, 45', TR.
, 7+, 1p, 45', gear.
, 9+, 1p, 45', TR. East Bluffs
A. Point Break
, 9, 1p, 35', bolts.
According to a Jefferson County Open Space ranger, dogs in the Jefferson County Open Space (including here) should be on leashes.
Weather station 3.4 miles from here
52 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',16],['2 Stars',24],['1 Star',9],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The East Quarry
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The East Quarry
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The East Quarry:
Hammerhead 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Sand Shark 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Weakfish 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Bertha 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Jaws 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Slap Happy 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Flying Fish 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Chum 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Wooly Bully 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For The East Quarry
Deepwater Horizon 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b CO
: The East Quarry
Ascend the thin seam up the bulging face. Stick clip the first bolt. The hardest moves are the start, but it is far from over. Continue up the seam up a short right-facing corner to a horizontal break at a small overlap (5.12a/b). A sidepull slapping redpoint crux leads above 5th bolt to a mantle finish. This climb is sustained and pumpy for its length. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
The East Quarry from near Quarry Wall.
Blooming after the rain. Thistle.
High up on SS Minnow, a fun and easy route.
The left side of East Quarry on a late December af...
Sea Robin, higher up the initial crack section. A ...
Blooming after the rain. Vetch?
The guidebook to the East Quarry "Golden Rock...
Blooming after the rain. Indian paintbrush.
Pretty waterfall in the late afternoon after a goo...
Blooming after the rain. Prickly pear.
Ephemeral falls on west side of East Quarry due to...
By Mark Rolofson
Aug 27, 2010
I have written and am about to publish a new guidebook that will include the climbs at the East Quarry, the other quarries on North Table and the Golden Cliffs. This guide titled "GOLDEN ROCK CLIMBS" will also include the sport climbs at nearby Golden Gate State Park. It should start to be available on September 10, 2010. I enjoy climbing at the East Quarry in the Winter months. It has become my favorite spot on North Table Mountain.
Sep 13, 2010
Some people like 'em short and dirty, others like 'em long and graceful. Cracks, that is.
Watch out for the rattlers and take the longer trail, the one in the old North Table book is high impact and hard work.
Can't wait to see the new book!
By Mark Rolofson
Oct 12, 2010
"Golden Rock Climbs is now available for $20.00 retail and features 144 pages including 32 cliff diagram photos, 14 climbing photos, topo drawings, maps and text. The new guide includes the basalt climbs of the Golden Cliffs, South Quarry, East Quarry, Sea Cliffs, Crater Crag on North Table Mountain. For the warmer months, it includes the sport climbs of Golden Gate State Park near Dude's Fishing Hole (about 50 granite climbs).
By mike c
Jan 11, 2011
This little quarry has proved more adventurous than I could have imagined...the gear routes here can be serious undertakings, and I would strongly suggest taking gently on some of the gear (aside from some of the bomber cracks) before falling with any significant force...maybe even top rope prior to leading on gear. Most of the harder trad lines were headpointed. There are some solid placements (in between marginal ones) on most of the routes, but most of the landings are severe. All were led ground up in one form or another. I did a little testing of some placements here and took some simulated hard falls. The gear held up for the first few falls pretty well, but after a few more the rock exploded along with the gear... I thought those placements were more sound than they appeared...I am learning new things every day...I can't believe how warm and comfortable it gets up there on cold but sunny winter days. If any one wants to go up and climb there, let me know. I would love to share this amazing resource. We can only keep what we have by giving it away!
Jan 21, 2012
I found a pair of rock shoes today (Saturday 1/22) sitting out at North Table Mountain's East Quarry area, above Golden. Email me at firstname.lastname@example.org and describe them, and I'll get them back to you.
Feb 29, 2012
What's the route to the right of Pinkerton? Bolted. Could go straight up or right over a block?
Dec 12, 2014
Hey guys, I may have left my North Face Summit Series black jacket at the base of the crag today. If anyone finds it, please call or text me at six 3 six - 2 four 8 - 8381.
By Patrick Lamers
Dec 13, 2014
Gajewski, we found one. I will text you.
By Lisa Montgomery
From: Golden, CO
Dec 16, 2014
I left a purple/blue wool knitted beanie up there on Saturday Dec. 13. If anyone finds it, will you contact me? Thanks!
Jan 4, 2016
I found a pair of almost brand new Scarpas at East Quarry yesterday. Email me the description and where you left them, and I will get them to you.