| The Steeple
This excellent three pitch route follow a crack and corner system on the east side of the Steeple formation. Everything from finger jamming to offwidth andchimney, with some face climbing thrown in make this a Woodfords classic. The second pitches straight-in 1/2" crack crux, leaves a comfortable belay ledge above the long, varied first pitch.
The start of The East Face Route is located up the gully from The Sail. From the toe of the East side of the Steeple(the start for The Sail). Walk carefully down the talus covered slab below the Sail towards the narrow gully system and steep drop to the left. Walk about 100 feet up the loose gully. At a large cairn go right towards a flat wall with some diagonalling cracks leading to some large rocks hanging out of a left-leaning chimney system. Climb the hand crack leading to a 12" tree growing out of the fissure. Go up and slightly right to a left-leaning double cracks that end in a leaning chimney. Follow the chimney and go over the bulge above at the second verticle crack exiting the wide slot. Some tough finger jamming and some face climbing. Lead to a two-bolt anchor, and possble belay. Continue up, then right under a roof along a dirty and loose hand rail towards a tree. Follow the vegetated left-facing corner above. A short fist crack ends at a two-bolt anchor. A good sized ledge down and left provides a comfortable belay. Pitch 2 Punch up the verticle thin finger crack to right facing flake. Continue up and belay from cams 2"-3" on a large ledge below the final summit block of the Stteple. Pitch 3 Move the belay back 30 feet(south) on the large ledge below and to the right of a finger crack in a right-facing corner. Climb the steep finger crack that widens, to few hand and fist jams before quickly widenining to offwidth and squeese chimney. Climb up and over and around the th corner(right) to a short west-facing arete. Climb the atete past a bolt then hand traverse past two more bolts to the north and lower off the anchors on the front side of the final summit block.
Wires, TCU.s and cams to 8", (2)each 1/2" to 3"
|By Milton Mugambe|
Jul 7, 2010
It needs some traffic... it's a bit dirty in spots and has some pesky vegetation on the second half of the first long pitch. The last ow to squeeze chimney is kinda dangerous and can be avoided by traversing, right, along blocky corners to the anchors of the Regular Routes second pitch, west, and one step up of the large ledge on the east side. Have fun