The Early Bird Crag Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: The Early Bird Crag and Maple Corridor following t...
This East facing crag contains 30 routes ranging from 5.1- 5.12. It receives sun all morning and doesn't see a lot of traffic as it is quite hot most of the time. The crag does contain a few multi-pitch routes with The Eagle's Nest 5.10c (5p) being the proudest line on the wall.
Park near the bridge and cross the creek to the North. Walk East along the base of the wall until you reach the sunny east face of the crag. Eagle's Nest and Eagle's Tenders will be the first routes you pass.
Weather station 5.4 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Early Bird Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Early Bird Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Early Bird Crag:
Rib Cage 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport, 90'
Raven Ridge 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Eagle's Nest 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, 5 pitches, 250'
Featured Route For The Early Bird Crag
By Jesse James
From: Knoxville, TN
Jun 10, 2013
Lured by the copious amount of stars in the new guidebook, we were un-impressed with the crag overall. Lots of loose stuff, so belayers should definitely wear a helmet. This is probably not the best place for beginners fresh out of the gym, despite the many easier climbs here.
By James Taylor
Jul 6, 2013
Jesse James is right regarding the fact that there seemed to be a lot of loose rock on the crag. However I disagree that it is a horrible place for those transitioning from the gym. In fact I would say the band of 5.1's next to each other are good routes for teaching beginners how to lead and also set / clean top rope anchors on sport routes. It isn't busy and lots of space on the ledge for both a trainer and student.
NOTE: Lots of routes at this crag are not listed in Mountain Project so don't try to count the bolts left to right based on the listing here.
By Gavin W
May 6, 2015
If you're looking for this area, don't make the mistake my party did and head up the first canyon you encounter after crossing the creek that has bolts. That would be Maple Corridor. Keep heading parallel to the road until you hit the next crag.