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The Eaglet

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Peregrine Arete T 
Unknown? T 
West Chimney, The T 

The Eaglet Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.1704, -71.6789 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,246
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jul 26, 2007
Forecast:
Tonight

41°
Thursday

52° | 41°
Friday

59° | 46°
Saturday

59° | 45°
Sunday

53° | 35°
Monday

51° | 38°
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the eaglet (and surounding crags) as seen from the...

CLOSED for Peregrine Falcon nesting MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Eaglet rules.

But I'll get in to more detail. The most prominent free standing spire in the east, the Eaglet is detached from the main cliff for about a hundred feet, though most of the routes on it are around 200 feet long.
The most popular route is the West Chimney (5.7) which is a great alpine climb compared to any; there are other committing yet worthy climbs as well. Though it's not too tall, you should be be prepared for a cannon-like experience because the weather and loose rock could bring on an epic at any moment... after hiking the trail up you will see why you don't want to get hurt up here. It would be tough to get you down.

The Eaglet was first climbed in 1929 by Lincoln O'Brien and Robert Underhill; they down climbed in to the saddle between the main cliff and the spire and then up to the summit.

Getting There 

Follow the directions to hounds hump ridge and look for the spire, its easy to approach up the talus once its in view...

Climbing Season

For the Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet etc) area.

Weather station 7.8 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',2],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Eaglet

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Eaglet:
The West Chimney   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Eaglet

Featured Route For The Eaglet
Rock Climbing Photo: Ernie Hansche (my dad) finishing the awesome secon...

The West Chimney 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  NH : WM: Franconia Notch : ... : The Eaglet
Pitch 1: Climb past at least one pin on steep rock till about 15 feet up where it gets slabby... At this point climb the slab up and left to easy yet loose ground heading in to the trees and a gully to the base of the chimney that marks the second pitch... Belay at the base of the chimney with gear...Pitch 2: Climb up the right hand of the two chimneys... A really fun classic pitch... Climb past the chock stone and up to a nice belay ledge. Typically there is a fixed anchor here that may or may ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of The Eaglet Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: JF on top of Eaglet
JF on top of Eaglet
Rock Climbing Photo: In case you are wondering how big the top is :)
In case you are wondering how big the top is :)
Rock Climbing Photo: Eaglet bivy!
Eaglet bivy!
Rock Climbing Photo: On the summit with Andrew.  Best views of Franconi...
On the summit with Andrew. Best views of Franconi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Torie breaking from the standard chimney route to ...
Torie breaking from the standard chimney route to ...
Rock Climbing Photo: sitting on top of the eaglet with lots of exposure...
sitting on top of the eaglet with lots of exposure...
Rock Climbing Photo: torie on the exposed finish of a variation on the ...
torie on the exposed finish of a variation on the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Coming up pitch two
Coming up pitch two

Comments on The Eaglet Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ashley Weisman 1
Apr 18, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Heads Up! The Eaglet is closed for Peregrine Falcon nesting through Aug 1, 2016. We walked up the trail about 200 yards on Sunday before seeing the posting, so thought it would be good to share.
By Jeffrey.LeCours
Administrator
From: New Hampshire
Apr 20, 2016
CONDITION REPORT 
Thanks Ashley! I added an access note at the top of this page.
By Chris Gesek
Aug 20, 2014
It may be obvious to everyone but me, but the first rock face you encounter on the Eaglet trail isn't the Eaglet. The climb I found first had bolts in it. Follow the cairns uphill for a few more minutes. The start of the West Chimney still has pins in it.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jul 22, 2015
Robert Lindley Murray Underhill...introduced modern rope and belaying techniques to the U.S. In the 1920s.

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