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Delta Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Book of the Dead S 
Crystal Meth S 
Eagle's Gift, The S 
East Crack T 
East Face Slab S 
Fin -- S. Face S 
Fin Arete S 
Hobo Sapien S 
Journey to Ixtlan S 
Over Under Sideways Down S 
Petty Tyrant S 
South Rib T 
Summit access T 
West Face Direct S 

The Eagle's Gift 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: JBaker, JParks, Craig Kafura, April 2014
Page Views: 662
Submitted By: jbak on Apr 14, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Muy Excelente !!... Complicated, devious, and pretty pumpy. You could call it knob climbing, but there's much more to it... seams, pinches, underclings, side-pulls, thumbs... they just keep coming. Would be a good pure onsight. Much easier with the draws hung and a game plan (AKA beta).

Josie W did a pure onsight of the route on April 19 2014 and said it was 11c or 11+. And 4 stars.

Drilled by Tony Lusk but never redpointed. In spite of the fact that I think (?) I did the FA, I don't really feel ownership of this line. Tony found the crag, Tony found the line, Tony drilled most of the holes. I think of it as Tony's gift to Tucson climbers.

"The Eagle's Gift" is also a book by Carlos Castaneda that kept me from going crazy while tent-bound when it rained and snowed for 3 days in the Wind Rivers many years back.

Location 

Middle of the NE face of the East Fin. Has a 2nd bolt permadraw to assist the sketchy clip.

Protection 

Bolts, mostly non-SS.


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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 24, 2014
By JoeS
Apr 16, 2014

This one is really good! climbing is interesting and quite varied. Crux seemed to be hard 11, but it took a while to find the needed hold, so maybe just mid 11 on redpoint. A strong 3 stars for this one.
By jbak
Apr 16, 2014

I was thinking 11+ or even 12- at first... the route is pretty complicated.

But with just 3 small pieces of beta in mind, I hiked the redpoint. It felt easier than "Don't Ask" at the Shed for example.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 17, 2014

I hiked three of my hardest redpoints. Should I rate them 12a which is as hard as they felt?
By jbak
Apr 17, 2014

...just a cranky old man aren't ya ? I need you to rate it for me.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 18, 2014

Nah, not cranky about that. Just sayin' it is hard to rate stuff when you work a route and it feels or is rated harder than you usually climb easily and then you walk it on the redpoint. This is why I wish people would take a little time and post up on this site how many stars they think a route deserves and and what they would rate it if it is different from what is posted.
By jbak
Apr 18, 2014

I agree that people should not be shy about posting ratings... as long as they have a fair bit of experience.

On this particular route: by the time I... fixed the anchor (TL put them in a rope-eating spot)... put hangers on the studs (TL's version of red-tagging)...fixed up 2 less-than-optimal bolt locations, I had lost perspective on the diff rating.

From a quality point-of-view, I'm tempted to give it 4 stars.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 18, 2014

This may be the route Jim did years ago. He said their was a super high quality 5.11 at this crag. You might talk to him and see if this is the one he did.
By jbak
Apr 18, 2014

He probably did the East Face or South Rib. They had hangers. This one didn't.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 20, 2014

Pretty sure they cinched stopppers as we have done in the past.
By jbak
Apr 22, 2014

I talked to Jim. Different route.
By Josie
Apr 23, 2014
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

So flippin' fun!! Keeps you thinking 'til you clip the anchors.
By jbak
Apr 24, 2014

That was a very pretty on-sight Tigrita !