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The Dark Side
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The Eagle has Landed 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 454
Submitted By: Jesse Ryan on Apr 27, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO

Description 

Climbs the route to the right of Two Hearts, off a large detached flake and up a short bulging face. Tackle the height dependent crux right after clipping the first bolt. Probably goes around 5.12c or so for someone tall enough to reach through to key pocket with their feet on the detached flake (perhaps 6'2+"). I feel the grade for anyone who must work their feet up first is 13a. After the crux move doubt the climb is harder than 5.12a/b or so, with fun moves on pockets that get progressively bigger as one gets closer to the anchors. Essentially a one move wonder, so despite interesting moves, good rock and position I only consider it worth one and a half stars.

Protection 

4 bolts to 2 bolt chain anchor.


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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Apr 29, 2002

On the Shelf Road scale it's worth two, if for no other reason than that it's harder than 12b. Plus I think the boulder problem is actually pretty good.