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Unsorted Routes:

The Dune 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Carrie and Bob Robertson
Page Views: 1,492
Submitted By: crossad on Jun 15, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Rory nearing the top of Dune.

Description 

This is a decent line up a face just left of an arete. The climb is located about 1/4 of the way down the wall from the mouth of the "canyon". Check the guidebook for the details.

Climb about 15 feet of 5.9 to the first bolt. The second bolt is only a few feet higher and protects the first challenge, a crimpy face section to a large ledge. Upon reaching the ledge, clip the 3rd bolt. Note: a flake that provides bomber hands about 5 feet left of the 3rd bolt was moving. Please be careful as it is directly above your belay! Continue over what I felt was the crux to the 4th bolt and another ledge. Move up through some fun climbing to the 5th bolt until you gain yet another small ledge. From here, you can climb the short distance to solid anchors using two cracks, a larger and a smaller.

There seems to be ledges every 10 feet or so that provide easy rests. The route is just to the left of the colored portion of the photo.

Protection 

5 bolts.


Photos of The Dune Slideshow Add Photo
Ron Olsen just above the second bolt.
Ron Olsen just above the second bolt.
Climber on Dune.
Climber on Dune.
Casey leading about half way up the climb.
Casey leading about half way up the climb.

Comments on The Dune Add Comment
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By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Mar 17, 2003

A nice cruise- Not too hard but lot's of fun. Crimpy in some areas, juggy in others.
By Edward Jenner
Aug 23, 2003

I was just wondering why the tree at the base needed cutting down? Was this simply to provide the people who climb in groups of 10 or so room to camp under this climb all day or because some people got their rope caught on it. If it's the latter, the bad news is that the flake above still snags them anyway.

I really hope there was a very good reason for it because I really liked that tree. It had a lot of character! No that is not sarcasm.
By Carrie
Oct 3, 2003

FA: Carrie & Bob.
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The landmark for the start of the climb is a sawed-off dead tree about 5 feet off the ground. It's partially visible in the photo below.

Some slippery footholds and well-spaced bolts make this a sporty line.
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I agree with Ron: if you are new to 10 leading, this will feel exciting.
By coldfish
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Apr 17, 2008

The holds are good, pretty juggy but the best holds got a little questionable the higher you got on the route. I was worried the big holds might be breaking off soon, but maybe I'm just paranoid.
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Nov 25, 2008

Would get an extra star from me if I wasn't worried about some questionable holds on the 2nd half of the route. I agree that it would be an "exciting" lead for someone at the grade.
By L G
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2009

Long solo to first bolt. Then the other bolts felt very run out. Overall, it felt poorly protected with potential to fall onto ledges.
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 2, 2011

Over the years this climb has gotten very polished. It's a real pile now with the exception of the very top, which remains nice. Given the absolutely horrid bolting, it's best to just avoid it.
By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The first bolt is probably a touch more than 15'. The holds near this bolt are quite polished. Upper portion of the route is pretty fun. Probably a bad lead for the 10- leader.