The Dune 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | Carrie and Bob Robertson |
| Submitted By: | crossad on Jun 15, 2002 |
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Ron Olsen just above the second bolt.
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Description This is a decent line up a face just left of an arete. The climb is located about 1/4 of the way down the wall from the mouth of the "canyon". Check the guidebook for the details.
Climb about 15 feet of 5.9 to the first bolt. The second bolt is only a few feet higher and protects the first challenge, a crimpy face section to a large ledge. Upon reaching the ledge, clip the 3rd bolt. Note: a flake that provides bomber hands about 5 feet left of the 3rd bolt was moving. Please be careful as it is directly above your belay! Continue over what I felt was the crux to the 4th bolt and another ledge. Move up through some fun climbing to the 5th bolt until you gain yet another small ledge. From here, you can climb the short distance to solid anchors using two cracks, a larger and a smaller.
There seems to be ledges every 10 feet or so that provide easy rests. The route is just to the left of the colored portion of the photo.
Protection 5 bolts.
Casey leading about half way up the climb.
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Climber on Dune.
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Rory nearing the top of Dune.
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By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Mar 17, 2003
| A nice cruise- Not too hard but lot's of fun. Crimpy in some areas, juggy in others. |
By Edward Jenner
Aug 23, 2003
| I was just wondering why the tree at the base needed cutting down? Was this simply to provide the people who climb in groups of 10 or so room to camp under this climb all day or because some people got their rope caught on it. If it's the latter, the bad news is that the flake above still snags them anyway.
I really hope there was a very good reason for it because I really liked that tree. It had a lot of character! No that is not sarcasm. |
By Carrie
Oct 3, 2003
| FA: Carrie & Bob. |
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2003
rating: 5.10a
| The landmark for the start of the climb is a sawed-off dead tree about 5 feet off the ground. It's partially visible in the photo below.
Some slippery footholds and well-spaced bolts make this a sporty line. |
By Dr. Evil
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 25, 2007
rating: 5.10a
| I agree with Ron: if you are new to 10 leading, this will feel exciting. |
By coldfish
From: Laramie, Wyoming
Apr 17, 2008
| The holds are good, pretty juggy but the best holds got a little questionable the higher you got on the route. I was worried the big holds might be breaking off soon, but maybe I'm just paranoid. |
By Brent Apgar
From: Out of the Loop
Nov 25, 2008
| Would get an extra star from me if I wasn't worried about some questionable holds on the 2nd half of the route. I agree that it would be an "exciting" lead for someone at the grade. |
By L G
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2009
| Long solo to first bolt. Then the other bolts felt very run out. Overall, it felt poorly protected with potential to fall onto ledges. |
By Stich
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 2, 2011
| Over the years this climb has gotten very polished. It's a real pile now with the exception of the very top, which remains nice. Given the absolutely horrid bolting, it's best to just avoid it. |
By boulderkeith
From: Boulder, CO
May 7, 2013
rating: 5.10a
| The first bolt is probably a touch more than 15'. The holds near this bolt are quite polished. Upper portion of the route is pretty fun. Probably a bad lead for the 10- leader. |
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