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The Dunce Cap

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Dunce Cap, The T 
Spirited Away T 
Time Out T 
Waltzing in the Wonderland T 

The Dunce Cap  


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Administrators: C Miller, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 8, 2003
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A look at Dunce Cap from the North Eastish.

Description 

The Dunce Cap is an impressive monolithic pluton in the eastern most reaches of the North Wonderland. The Dunce Cap (5.10c) is one of several recorded routes on this rock and potential for more FAs exists. The sheer north face, extending over 200' in height, consists of discontinuous cracks, extensive flake systems, a wide dihedral, and shallow depressions in undulating patterns. The southwest wall is only half as high as the north face but promising FAs are also present.


Getting There 

One approach to this crag is to follow the North Wonderland Trail which begins at Key's Corner through washes to the Willow Hole. Continue east over small boulders through a narrow drainage that eventually connects with a broad north - south wash that meanders into Rattlesnake Canyon. The Dunce Cap is about 1/4 mile south of this point and easy to distinguish by a large right-leaning pillar on its northeast side.


Climbing Season



Weather station 6.9 miles from here

4 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',2],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dunce Cap:
The Dunce Cap   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Spirited Away   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
Browse More Classics in The Dunce Cap

Featured Route For The Dunce Cap
Near the top of the second pitch, beginning the final cruxy traverse. Photo by Holden Harris.

Spirited Away 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Dunce Cap
This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position.Begin near the center of the North Face (right of center in Beta Photo), at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block (in sunlight in Beta Photo). Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Move up and left to a discontinuous seam/crack which is follow...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of The Dunce Cap Slideshow Add Photo
The impressive North Face of The Duncecap. Several excellent routes are found on this face, including (left to right): The Duncecap, 5.10c (begins off leaning block); Spirited Away, 5.11b (up center via flakes); Time Out, 5.10b (offwidth on right), and Waltzing In The Wonderland, 5.11b/c (thin crack/layback just right of Time Out). Copyright 2003, Randy V.
BETA PHOTO: The impressive North Face of The Duncecap. Several...
The steep north face of the Dunce Cap
BETA PHOTO: The steep north face of the Dunce Cap
The Dunce Cap. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
The Dunce Cap.
Photo by Blitzo.

Comments on The Dunce Cap Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Nov 26, 2012
Has anyone else noticed the hueco filled with large bone shards on the summit? At first glance, I figured it was a raptor roost, but there is no poop anywhere. On further inspection, the bone pieces are quite large, so unlikely that a bird carried it up there. Methinks a bighorn sheep managed to summit the formation, and forgot his rope for the mandatory rappel, perishing on the summit. Wild.