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The Dunce Cap
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dunce Cap, The 
Spirited Away 
Time Out 
Waltzing in the Wonderland 

The Dunce Cap 


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Administrators: C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 8, 2003

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BETA PHOTO: The impressive North Face of The Duncecap. Several...

Description 

The Dunce Cap is an impressive monolithic pluton in the eastern most reaches of the North Wonderland. The Dunce Cap (5.10c) is one of several recorded routes on this rock and potential for more FAs exists. The sheer north face, extending over 200' in height, consists of discontinuous cracks, extensive flake systems, a wide dihedral, and shallow depressions in undulating patterns. The southwest wall is only half as high as the north face but promising FAs are also present.


Getting There 

One approach to this crag is to follow the North Wonderland Trail which begins at Key's Corner through washes to the Willow Hole. Continue east over small boulders through a narrow drainage that eventually connects with a broad north - south wash that meanders into Rattlesnake Canyon. The Dunce Cap is about 1/4 mile south of this point and easy to distinguish by a large right-leaning pillar on its northeast side.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dunce Cap:
The Dunce Cap   5.10c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   
Spirited Away   5.11b PG13     Trad, 3 pitches, 220 feet   
Waltzing in the Wonderland   5.11     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Browse More Classics in The Dunce Cap

Featured Route For The Dunce Cap
Near the top of the second pitch, beginning the final cruxy traverse. Photo by Holden Harris.

Spirited Away 5.11b PG13  CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Dunce Cap
This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position.Begin near the center of the North Face (right of center in Beta Photo), at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block (in sunlight in Beta Photo). Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Move up and left to a discontinuous seam/crack which is follow...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of The Dunce Cap Slideshow Add Photo
The steep north face of the Dunce Cap

BETA PHOTO: The steep north face of the Dunce Cap

A look at Dunce Cap from the North Eastish.

A look at Dunce Cap from the North Eastish.

The Dunce Cap. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

The Dunce Cap.
Photo by Blitzo.



Comments on The Dunce Cap Add Comment
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By Richard Shore
Nov 26, 2012

Has anyone else noticed the hueco filled with large bone shards on the summit? At first glance, I figured it was a raptor roost, but there is no poop anywhere. On further inspection, the bone pieces are quite large, so unlikely that a bird carried it up there. Methinks a bighorn sheep managed to summit the formation, and forgot his rope for the mandatory rappel, perishing on the summit. Wild.