The Dunce Cap is an impressive monolithic pluton in the eastern most reaches of the North Wonderland. The Dunce Cap (5.10c) is one of several recorded routes on this rock and potential for more FAs exists. The sheer north face, extending over 200' in height, consists of discontinuous cracks, extensive flake systems, a wide dihedral, and shallow depressions in undulating patterns. The southwest wall is only half as high as the north face but promising FAs are also present.
One approach to this crag is to follow the North Wonderland Trail which begins at Key's Corner through washes to the Willow Hole. Continue east over small boulders through a narrow drainage that eventually connects with a broad north - south wash that meanders into Rattlesnake Canyon. The Dunce Cap is about 1/4 mile south of this point and easy to distinguish by a large right-leaning pillar on its northeast side.
Browse More Classics in The Dunce Cap
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Dunce Cap:
The Dunce Cap 5.10c R Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet
Spirited Away 5.11b PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 220 feet
Waltzing in the Wonderland 5.11 Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet
Featured Route For The Dunce Cap
Spirited Away 5.11b PG13 CA : Joshua Tree National Park : ... : The Dunce Cap
This route stands among the best in the entire Park. Bold, but adequately protected, the signature second pitch offers continuous climbing in a stellar position.Begin near the center of the North Face (right of center in Beta Photo), at the foot of the base of the rock, on the left side of a large rectangular block (in sunlight in Beta Photo). Pitch 1: Up cracks on the left side of the block to a very large flat ledge (5.8). Pitch 2: Move up and left to a discontinuous seam/crack which is follow...[more] Browse More Classics in CA