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Orange Crush
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The Drillary Step 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 796
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Oct 14, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Description 

Very enjoyable, albeit brief, climbing up a swell with perfect incuts and a laughably fun, well-protected, foot-flailing dyno to cap off this route.

Like the neighboring "Sir Edmund Drillary", this short, fingery route is a great way to pass the time while waiting in line for the classic lines of Upper Orange Crush.


Location 

The left-most route on Upper Orange Crush.


Protection 

4 bolts and two bolt anchors.



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By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Sep 15, 2008

i thought this was a pretty fun climb... way better than sir edmund drillery to the right... this had great movement and if it was more than a boulder problem i think it would be a classic...

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 21, 2011

First Ascentionist - Chris Smith, August 1998

Fun, long, dynamic moves, at the top end of the cliff where there is usually a breeze and with a great view.

By S. Neoh
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Yeah, I thought this is a nice climb in a scenic setting, just wish it were longer. Fun bouldery moves on a rope. Like Lee said, WAY better than the 11a to its right.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 21, 2011
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Yeah gentlemen I agree with you if this was the top of a 70 foot climb it would be classic but it is a great route which I encourage everyone to get on!

By J Meagher
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

Is this a reasonable route for a first 11c? Ive already done Little Big Man at main cliff, is this significantly harder/more intimidating?

By S. Neoh
Sep 14, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

Yes, almost a 1-move wonder. Will feel easy if you boulder often. Well bolted and short. Slight harder than The Snowman down at Monsters. It is also slightly harder than Little Big Man. Altho, I actually sent this one quicker than LBM. LBM is quite hard for me with a 5'5" wing span.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 15, 2013

J Meagher: If I was looking for a first 11c I'd think about Apocalypse Later, Salley's Alley, High Roller, Ali Babbler (is "different" for rumney but AWESOME), Iron Man (has an exposed feel), Black Mamba.

Or push yourself a little harder with Pulse, Nicky's Crack, or The Crusher.

Also would be fun to check off the lower end of the 11 range: Tropicana, Know Ethics, Waimea, Lions Tigers & Bears, Buried Treasure, Prime Climb, Arm & Hammer, Sky Pilot, Bullwinkle Craters, Man w/ a Heuco.

By S. Neoh
Sep 15, 2013
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a

To the OP - I would TOTALLY agree that you should try all of these out BEFORE trying to add to LBM as your list of ticked 11's.
"Tropicana, Know Ethics, Waimea, Lions Tigers & Bears, Buried Treasure, Prime Climb, Sky Pilot, Bullwinkle Craters, Man w/ a Heuco,
Centerpiece, Peer Pressure."

They are going to be well worth your time and effort even if you need to come back a second time to each to lead it cleanly.

Arm & Hammer is harder (.11b/c?) and note that Sky Pilot needs 1 or 2 pieces of gear if you want to keep the protection G rated.