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Sunshine Face - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Buttress Chimney 
Drain Pipe, The 
First Pitch 
Gates of Delirium 
Golden Oldies 
Hesitation Direct 
Iron Cross 
Last of the Mohicans 
New Generation 
Quiet Desperation 
Race With The Devil 
Red Rain 
Stretch, The 
Sundance Arete 
Voodoo Child 

The Drain Pipe 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Larry Harrell & Charlie Raymond, March 1967 FFA: John Long, Richard Harrison & Rick Accomazzo, 1973
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 835
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Mar 4, 2006
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Scrambling leads to a tree belay at the top of P1 of Gates of Delirium.

P1 Traverse right to ease to a bolt clip then very thin moves (exposed crux) to gain the bottom of the crack (nut/cam). The crack provides frantic trickiness of a different nature, past pitons to a ledge below the real Drain Pipe pitch.

P2 Laybacking and jamming with good pro, and in a wonderful position leads to a fitting finale: hand traverse right under Piasano Pinnacle, what a great pitch!


Same descent as Valhalla etc.


1 Bolt, 2 pitons, nuts, cams.

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By Chris Owen
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Feb 6, 2010

I gave it *** because I really enjoyed the second pitch. Pitch one was average.