|Type:||Trad, 3 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Ed Webster and Chester Dreiman, Oct. 1982|
|Submitted By:||Vic on May 14, 2011|
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|Comments on The Dragon's Tooth||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Jay 1975
Apr 2, 2012
|Good, tired, second day route, except for hiking out the rest of the height out.|
By John Peterson
May 14, 2012
Definitely a worthy route. I expect it will clean up some more and become as clean as Casual / Casually Off.
On the approach, you can cut over fairly high to the base of the route, avoiding all poison ivy. This looked a little dubious, but by slithering down a 15' chimney, I wound up near the top of the slabs below the route. From the bottom of the chimney, I went up an easy gully and then traversed right into the slab near its top, easily beating my partner to the base.
I wouldn't use the term OW to describe the lower part of the first pitch - the crack opens a bit but not that wide (#3 Camalot worked fine). We had rope drag issues and belayed at the tree on the left to break the pitch up.
The crack pitch was really nice, but the leader needs to protect the move left at the top of the crack to keep the second happy.
We were intimidated by the first move on the last pitch - you can see a great foothold from the belay, but you can't tell if it stays hard or eases up. It eases up - it's just the step out onto the face that's a problem but we ended up climbing up about 15' to a horizontal crack that joins the pitch at the bush.
The rap slings were in good shape - nice little summit. After the raps, we decided to head back to SOB. This worked quite well - we were able to contour over without losing much elevation at all. We could have left our shoes in the gully without any problem. There's a little loose rock crossing a small ridge, but the rest was easy. It was way better than fighting the chockstone and going up to the campground. We parked at the ranger station which made things very convenient. We might head back and clean up some of the loose rock and brush soon.
By Fritz N.
From: Durango, CO
Sep 2, 2013
Enjoyable route. After rapping the Tooth, we took Casual to the rim. Especially fun climbing on the blocky arete just above and right of the walkoff gully chockstone/cave.
Rap anchor is in good condition as of 9/2/13.