| Lost Temple |
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The Doom 5.11
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Dave Nelson
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Description "The Doom" goes up the dihedral to the roof, then out the right side. A very technical little route.
Location On the right side of Lost Temple rock is a low roof.
Protection Not much.
Trying to read the next few moves
| Burt stabs at nothing
| Rhoads.
| Mike on the 5.11 variant "Fate".
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By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Nov 23, 2009
| Guidebook rates this little toughy as 5.10b? It felt a bit harder then that. In fact I never got it. I need to go back and finish this thing. |
By Doug Hemken Administrator Nov 23, 2009
| I've never completed this one either, but judging from those I've watched do it, I'd guess its 5.11. |
By Terry Kieck Nov 24, 2009
| After I did Doom rated 10b and Fate rated 11a/b I thought Doom was a more difficult climb than Fate. I asked Alex A about the routes one day and he thought the two route's ratings may have been switched in the book. (He worked with Swartling on the 2nd addition.) |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Nov 24, 2009
| I didn't get to try Fate but I sure eye-balled it. It was hard to tell if it was going to be harder then Doom but it did look as though there was more for the feet in the crux roof area. That's what made Doom seem so hard for me--- it totally was lacking in good foot holds in those moves past the little overhang.... |
By Doug Hemken Administrator Nov 24, 2009
| Dave S. did both: had to work Doom, but got Fate first try. |
By Burt Lindquist Administrator From: Madison, WI Nov 24, 2009
| It all kind of makes sense then given what Terry has added and how Mr. Silverman fared in his attempts/sends. Plus- "The Doom" has a much more sinister and dark name (and perhaps meaning) then "Fate". |
By Trad Nanny Apr 18, 2010 rating: 5.11b PG13
| The bad news is that there is no pro on this thing at all. The good news is that it is now a V3 boulder problem. |
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