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The 100-yard Wall
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Doil, The T 
Fledgling T 
Nutcracker T 

The Doil 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 5,041
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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The Doil.

  • Raptor Closure 2016: Three Penguins 2016 Raptor Closure: All climbing routes on the Three Penguins are temporarily closed due to presence of raptors displaying breeding behavior. Check status and details at: -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park
  • RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This climb starts on where Nutcracker ends. It ascents a formation that looks a bit like a drumstick. Stem, hands, chimney to the top and rap to the base from slings on a chockstone. Then walk off left.


    Starts where Nutcrack ends; on the left side of the 100-yard wall.


    standard desert rack

    Photos of The Doil Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ahh, a nice rest spot.
    Ahh, a nice rest spot.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Steps that lead to the climb
    Steps that lead to the climb
    Rock Climbing Photo: The fun handcrack start.
    The fun handcrack start.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Being swallowed alive by the chimney.
    Being swallowed alive by the chimney.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing and having fun.
    Climbing and having fun.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Committing to the crack.
    Committing to the crack.

    Comments on The Doil Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By toddgordon
    From: Joshua Tree, California
    May 3, 2007

    I did this climb (along with the Nutcracker) in the early 1980's, with Doug Smith. I found the climbing O K, but the rock was rather sandy. Still;...there aren't too many "easy" , short climbs near the road;'s one to do. Combined with Nutcracker, you got 2 pitches. Try it on for size.
    By Darren Knezek
    Nov 3, 2007
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I thought that this climb was about as good as 5.8 gets for the desert. A few big blocks that lead up to a killer hand crack in a chimney of sorts. Great gear the entire way and a small training climb for the easy 5.10's at Indian Creek.
    By BenCooper
    Nov 1, 2008

    When I climbed the route (Oct. 2008), the chockstone anchor was still there, but the main anchor were two drilled angles, which appeared and felt much more solid than the old anchor.
    By Josh Cameron
    From: Moab, Colorado
    Jun 12, 2011
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    I agree with you Darren, this climb is almost classic for a desert 5.8. Not sure which I enjoyed more: the killer handcrack or climbing the handcrack into the chimney.

    Great pro the whole way.
    By Sam A.
    From: San Antonio, TX
    Jul 23, 2014

    Can you do this climb with passive pro, or are cams needed?
    By Jedly
    May 11, 2015
    rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This was my favorite 5.8 crack in Moab!! Great gear placement and a solid line. I did this after doing Nutcracker below and it was about 2 stars better. Nutcracker was awkward and sandy. Plus, me and my girl did this on a weekend and NO ONE was around! I think cuz I didn't see it in any guidebook.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing The Doil in Arches.
    Climbing The Doil in Arches.

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