|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 65'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||toddgordon on May 3, 2007|
|Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions in Arches National Park MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on The Doil||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 3, 2007
|I did this climb (along with the Nutcracker) in the early 1980's, with Doug Smith. I found the climbing O K, but the rock was rather sandy. Still;...there aren't too many "easy" , short climbs near the road;..here's one to do. Combined with Nutcracker, you got 2 pitches. Try it on for size.|
By Darren Knezek
Nov 3, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|I thought that this climb was about as good as 5.8 gets for the desert. A few big blocks that lead up to a killer hand crack in a chimney of sorts. Great gear the entire way and a small training climb for the easy 5.10's at Indian Creek.|
Nov 1, 2008
|When I climbed the route (Oct. 2008), the chockstone anchor was still there, but the main anchor were two drilled angles, which appeared and felt much more solid than the old anchor.|
By Josh Cameron
Jun 12, 2011
I agree with you Darren, this climb is almost classic for a desert 5.8. Not sure which I enjoyed more: the killer handcrack or climbing the handcrack into the chimney.
Great pro the whole way.
By Sam A.
Jul 23, 2014
|Can you do this climb with passive pro, or are cams needed?|