The Doggfather 5.12b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 65 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Travis Peckham |
| Submitted By: | colin rickert on Apr 17, 2010 |
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Aaron Fournier slaps the final rail on The Doggfat...
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Description This route is a true classic and is a must-do for any visiting climber capable of the grade. Begin with a long, pumpy, sequential 5.11+ face climbing section to a sloping rail where there is an awkward no-hands rest using your shoulder blade and smeared feet, use it well. Once you get uncomfortable in the no-hands "rest", best to move on to the crux which is a long V5 boulder problem through a bulge. There is a challenging clip right at the crux section. The final move involves a dyno off a small crimp to a big rail that must be mantled to clip the chains. You might catch some air if you blow it at the top but it's 100% fun and safe.
Location Follow the trail map for the Bolton area to the 82 crag and use the rope to climb up the chossy 5.5 intro crag to get to the base of the hard routes. The Doggfather is the 4th route from the left or two routes right of the spray-painted "82" sign.
Protection bolts
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