The Dodgy Vixen  5.12a

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  T. Kuss New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Tim Kuss on Apr 6, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: "Dodgy Vixen" in blue. "Totally High" red. What ar...

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Description 

Like the dodgy vixen we all know, this leads you to believe that it's going to be easy and sweet. Then it starts getting kind of gnarly and then really friken' difficult. Start by liebacking the gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. Hop on the rock clipping bolts across the slab and up the corner/arete (use a long sling on the fourth bolt). Traverse the ledge right, to the obvious bolt line, (long slings on fifth and eighth bolts) through soft huecos and a big overhang and headwall.

Location 

50 feet left of the waterfall, look for the big gamble oak leaning against the lip of the cave. This shares the start (first four bolts) with Hysteria and Totally High Maintenance.

Protection 

Twelve bolts. Bring three long slings for the fourth, fifth, and eighth bolts to reduce rope drag. There are fixed anchor with biners for lowering. There are security cameras afixed on the anchor to catch biner thieves (slow death penalty). If you take biners 'cause they're worn out, leave your own then.