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Skyline Wall (PATC Wall)
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Dobie Gillis Route, The 
Fern Crack 
Piton Crack 
Psychobabble 
Rusty Bong 
unnamed highball 
Waste Age 

The Dobie Gillis Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Season: Spring-Fall,warmer winter days
Page Views: 2,437
Submitted By: SexPanther aka Kiedis on Aug 11, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Nick at the first bolt.

Description 

Nice crack climbing to a bolt, then traverse to anchors. Fun route, bring tape.


Location 

Find Waste Age, the tough-looking 50 foot bolted face. Dobie is just to the left, and ends by traversing right to the same anchors.


Protection 

Std rack and 1 bolt.



Photos of The Dobie Gillis Route Slideshow Add Photo
view from the left of the route, cant see crack well, but can see line follows crack up to slab.
BETA PHOTO: view from the left of the route, cant see crack we...
Base of Dobie Gillis
Base of Dobie Gillis
Dobie Gillis. A rather notorious ascent which started out normal but ended up in Accidents in North American Mountaineering.
Dobie Gillis. A rather notorious ascent which star...
Comments on The Dobie Gillis Route Add Comment
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By C Runyan
From: Pennsylvania
Oct 6, 2008

The ancient fixed pins at the anchor have been replaced with bolts. I believe the route's single bolt 3/4 the way has been replaced as well - it looks new and super solid, anyway.

Thanks to whoever took the time do make this popular climb much more safe.

By NickViator
From: Denver, CO
Jan 2, 2011

It's fun to climb this route up to the bolts then bring some larger cams (1"-3" or so) to traverse right in the horizontal crack that continues right of the bolts.

By David Raines
Jul 3, 2013

Short route, but a little bit of everything -
- finger cracks
- hand cracks
- stemming and face moves
- slab finish

I'd say all 4 of those styles go around 5.8, so its a good challenge for a 5.8 leader. Just wish it was longer.