The Dizzy Channel  5.9

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Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 270 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Matthew Selman, 2012 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Matt Selman on Apr 28, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Jason Stevens and Matt Selman on the second pitch ...

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Description 

The Dizzy Channel is a moderate jaunt up the northwestern corner of Dizzy Rock. The route is well protected, with great exposure and excellent views of Maple.

Pitch 1 - The Hidey Hole: Follow the bolts as they meander through the best/cleanest sections of rock, climbing through a couple of short steep sections to a two-bolt belay in a pod. Keep your eyes peeled for the Hidey Hole, a deep, dark, fist-sized spider hole. 5.7.

Pitch 2: Take off up the arete from the belay. Walk the narrow ledge to the base of the tower bloc, and follow four bolts to a belay at its summit. 5.6.

Pitch 3: Step across to the wall of Dizzy Rock proper and follow the bolts up, paralleling the water streak on your right. Less-than-vertical terrain leads to the short, steep crux overhang. Jugs save the day here. Belay from two bolts on Shoe Leather Ledge just after the crux. 5.9.

Pitch 4: Follow the bolt line to chains just below the summit. 5.6.
To reach the true summit, the leader can either climb through this section and belay from steel pipes embedded on the summit, or bring the second up to the belay and scramble to the top. Either way it’s one or two easy fifth-class moves to reach the summit.

The Dizzy Channel is set up to be climbed in four pitches, but with lots of extra draws, including a few long ones or runners, pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be combined. Be aware, however, that the staircase shape of the route can create drag.

Location 

Approach:
The Dizzy Channel ascends the northwest arete of Dizzy Rock. Walk up along the base, passing the route Fish Pin, until you are under the steep overhanging arete. The route begins on less-steep terrain just around the arete.

Descent:
Three options exist for the descent. It is possible to rappel the route with a single 60 meter rope. A more direct rappel, however, can be found by scrambling down 15 feet to climber’s left from the final belay. Here a set of chains marks the top of Fish Pin, which can be descended with a 60 meter rope in a straight series of three rappels. If you’re rappelling, this is the recommended option. Finally, it is possible (and quite pleasant) to walk off the route from the summit of Dizzy Rock. A bit of third- and fourth-class scrambling to the south takes you off the summit of the formation and onto the rolling grassy bench that is the west rim of the Left Hand Fork. From here, either walk a faint trail south and down into the Left Hand Fork, or drop into a steep gully to the north and descend almost directly to the base of The Dizzy Channel.

Protection 

All bolts. 12 draws will suffice.

Photos of The Dizzy Channel Slideshow

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Jason Stevens atop the tower on the second pitch o...	Jason Stevens just below the crux of The Dizzy...	Jason Stevens tops out on the last pitch of Th...
BETA PHOTO: Dizzy Rock as viewed from the Schoolroom parking a...	BETA PHOTO: This photo shows Fish Pin (5.10c***) in green and ...