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Junkyard Wall
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The Distortionist 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b R

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Carl Samples and Bob Rentka
Page Views: 794
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on May 18, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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The Distortionist

Description 

Climb the offwith with deep chockstones for holds and mantle the ledge, then climb up the slab to the anchors.

Oft-guided, usually has a line if no guides are on it.


Location 

Obvious left ridge of giant flake at Junkyard Wall.


Protection 

Takes fine pro, but it is very spaced even for this short climb. None of it will keep you from hitting a ledge or the ground once you are 20ft up.



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By Eliot
Jul 17, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b R

I'm not sure this is x-rated, R maybe, I had decent gear the whole way, with a number 3 C4 as the largest. A ledge fall is likely but I doubt it would seriously injure you.

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jul 17, 2007

I gave this a X because if you fall pulling the upper crux (5.5-5.6ish) you will hit the ledge down and to your left pretty hard, especially with a belayer not expecting you to fall, this fall could easily result is a sprained ankle or broken wrist.

However, I respect your opinion and I doubt many people who climb this would be worried about the falling their unless 5.6 is their limit(yes there are people like that out there).

By Christian Mason
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 19, 2007

I agree. I understand your motivation, but giving this an X implies a level of seriousness that is not present on this climb.

I suspect a fall on the upper crux would put you in position to take perhaps a 7 foot slide/fall on the the big ledge. (there is gear before the upper crux IIRC)

By David Horning
Oct 27, 2012

You can TR it pretty easily.