Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Winterfest Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Quark for Quayle 
Abortion Control 
Anartichoke 
Big Rattler 
Bimbo in Limbo 
Brokendown Shanty 
Bush Loves Detroit 
Cat's Meow 
Consolation 
Crawling Up Roseanne's Belly 
Dissolution, The 
Driving Over Stella 
Dweeb 
Fractions 
Generica 
Interstellar Overdrive 
Jell-O Brand Napalm 
Killian's Red 
Leaning Pillar 
Nouveau Reach aka Jeff's Third Climb aka Photo Art 
Pass The Tanning Butter 
Pseudo Bullet 
Pumcat 
Rebel Yell 
Resolution, The 
Runt 
Silver Bullet 
Sunset Arete 
Tanning Butter 
Too Dumb to Sleep In 
Twinkletoes 
Under The Wire 
Whole Lot of Drunk 

The Dissolution 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Tod Anderson, Richard Wright, 1/94
Page Views: 428
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Aug 27, 2001
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Access Fund still owns Golden Cliffs property; soon to be transferred to Jefferson County MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The first clip is very hard off the ground and is routinely done by steming the face on the left. The first sequence of moves hits you with a thin fingery series past the first bolt and is sound 5.11 just getting to the second clip where another 5.11 series arises. A bit further another crux, just as difficult as the first, arises past clip four. This series goes without a stem (off route) at close to 5.11d but can be avoided to some extent by stepping left and stemming onto the adjacent wall.

Overall, The Dissolution has a bit more continuous climbing than on The Resolution, the stone is good, and the moves can really tax the finger-crimp strength. To keep the dissolution from catching up, make those feet work.


Location 

The Dissolution fires up the same face as The Resolution and ten feet to the left.


Protection 

Bring seven draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top that is shared with The Resolution.



Comments on The Dissolution Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jul 31, 2008
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

FA - January 1994.

By Dwight Jugornot
From: Arvada, Co.
Jan 4, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

This route can be done completely- without any stemming. The first bolt seems wise to stick-clip. First crux is bouldery when not stemmed, second crux is athletic and balancy, third crux is a very awkward strength move, fourth crux is super crimpy and foot dependent.
All four cruxes seem mid 11-ish. Four quality cruxes? 3 stars! I would give it 4 if it were longer.
I would say 11d for a tall person. Maybe 12a for someone with less reach?