|Type:||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA:||Chip Ruckgaber, Summer 2011|
|Submitted By:||mike schlauch on Nov 6, 2013|
|Comments on The Dispensary||Add Comment|
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Nov 6, 2013
|Remember to check your knot and yer belayer!|
Nov 14, 2013
The tree at the base of the climb has a large block leaning against it. This scared me, because I could not find any gear for the 1st 15 ft of climbing when you are already 40 feet up the ramp. I really wanted to sling the tree. I ended up doing this and had my belayer move toward a cave thinking that if I did fall and weighted the tree, the boulder might dislodge and crush my belayer, me, and possibily someone at the bottom of the hill. After building a nest 6 feet below the 1st bolt, I downclimbed to the tree and removed the sling because I did not dare weight it. Seemed possible if I fell higher on the climb.
That said the climbing is easy to the first pieces but intimidating and not on very solid rock.
I was unable to find any gear besides the tree before leaving the ramp. Maybe a #4 Camalot in the mud layer?
I would love to see this block removed. It would be dangerous to do because it might roll all the way to the trail. Might be able to sling it at lower it down the ramp.
Anyway, fun climb, well worth doing. Decent warm up for routes in the roof area.
Mar 17, 2014
^^ Regarding the post above about the gear before the bolt, I was able to find plenty of gear to safely protect the climbing before 1st bolt. The moves off of the ramp are chossy but it is all there and gear can be had if you look around. After clipping the bolt, I back cleaned my gear easily. At the last bolt, step left and head straight up. I was able to find smaller gear to protect the moves onto the ledge before the belay tree. The tree has webbing and you can easily setup a TR after leading.
I found this climb to be similar but better than bolting for glory. It will clean up nicely with more traffic.
PS the block mentioned that is leaning against the tree is still there, but I put my feet on it and didn't seem too sketchy to me. If it goes, it will probably stop at the base of the ramp.
By Drew Spaulding
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
|Fun and interesting pitch. Thin face climbing! Seems that there is 2 ways to climb past almost each bolt... some ways easier/harder than others. Fairly big runout after the final bolt....|